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Why I Stopped Deep Conditioning Overnight

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by Shelli of Hairscapades.com

In the past, I would deep condition overnight in a minute … shoot, in a millisecond. But, over the course of 2011-2012, I learned about the importance of protein, protein/moisture balance and that I could, in fact, over-condition my hair. I realized that the very soft feeling that my hair had for most of 2011 was because my hair was over-conditioned and that the crazy shedding that I was experiencing in fall 2011 was likely my hair breaking, because it didn’t have enough tensile strength.

Read On>>>
However, though I began to incorporate protein into my regimen and felt a great improvement in the strength of my hair and saw my curl pattern return, I still slept in deep conditioners often. Now, the thing is, I didn’t do this to get any additional benefits, rather, I would sleep in my conditioner out of sheer laziness. Sometimes, I’m tired and I just don’t feel like washing it out.

But then, this fall, I read a very interesting and informative article:
via The Natural Haven 
Deep Conditioning: Effect of Time and Temperature/Heat
Increasing the time you leave conditioner on hair allows more of it to adsorb with a maximum adsorption at 20- 30 minutes. 
[W]hen conditioner is heated to 35°C, at 10 minutes there is slightly more than 5% on hair and at 30 minutes there is slightly more than 10%. Therefore temperature increases adsorption. The rule however remains the same in terms of no further conditioner sticking to the surface after 30 minutes. 

So How Long Should I Deep Condition?

Well, after reading that
1) Conditioning over 30 minutes does not provide any additional benefits as adsorbtion plateaus 
2) Conditioning for hours at a time causes a a change in the keratin that results in softening and weakening.

I started re-thinking my post-wash, deep conditioning habits. Now, though I have pretty much stopped deep conditioning overnight and often only deep condition for 30 minutes to an hour, I still condition for 3-4 hours on occasion. But again, it’s not to get any additional benefits … it’s just because I don’t feel like getting up to rinse my hair and style it!! I KNOW!! LOL!! But, I’m really working on keeping deep conditioning down to 30 minutes or a max of an hour!!

Now, although I don’t do post-wash deep conditioning overnight anymore, I still sleep in my pre-poo (Vatika Oil mixed with Aubrey GPB and/or Aubrey Honeysuckle Rose). The reason I do this is because the study done on the benefits of Coconut Oil for pre-pooing demonstrated the effects with overnight application, so that is what is recommended. I also pre-poo my dry, not wet or dampened, hair. However, the Aubrey conditioners do contain water as the first ingredient … so I’ve been torn about mixing them with Vatika Oil for my overnight pre-poo. However, for now, I’ll continue this practice as my hair seems to do great with the combo and doesn’t feel excessively soft. I think the protein in GPB and the “protein-retaining” properties of coconut oil may have something to do with that! And, you know the saying, if it ain’t broke …

*********************************
How long do you deep condition? Do you deep condition overnight?


CN Says-
Y'all know I stopped it with the overnight shenanigans a while back. Primarily because of the Boogie factor, but also because my fine, fragile strands like to be stretched and left the hell alone... and perhaps lubed up with an oil concoction from time to time. 

Keeping my wash sessions to once a week or every other week yields healthier, stronger hair.  I do a pre-poo/deep condition situation (with my heat cap) 20-30 minutes before my regularly scheduled wash and it gets the job done! I follow the same regimen for The Boogs and her hair is flourishing. 

This article was originally published on December 2013 and has recently been updated for grammar and clarity. 

6 Things I Learned Going Natural

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by Michelle Thames of HappilyEverNatural.com

I began my natural hair journey in 2009. I transitioned for 24 months before cutting the reaming perm off of my ends. I will say that I have learned a lot-- there have been good days, and not so good days. But all in all, I am happy and I have learned to accept, expect and embrace certain things.

Read On!>>>
  • Sometimes your hair refuses to dry... raise your hand if this is true for you!  Have you ever created a bomb twist set and went to sleep knowing that your hair would essentially be on “fleek” tomorrow because you spent all night twisting it and now your fingers hurt? But then you wake up and begin to take your hair down, only to realize that it’s still damp in places! Argh… natural hair problems! I have learned to accept the fact that my hair won’t always dry when I want, and that if I want a particular style I have to spend more time to let it dry before attempting to take it down.
  • That inspirational style from Instagram didn’t turn out like you expected. Lets face it, we all are on Instagram getting hair inspiration from so many different naturalistas! You see her hair is on point, so you go and try out the style yourself with hopes of it turning out like hers. You do the exact same steps, follow her exact same routine, use the same products… and then bam she has voluminous curls and you have a fro. Hey there curlfriend, it happens LOL! I have learned to accept that even if I do the style the same way I may have different results and I am okay with that! Which speaks to my next point...
  • Everyone has different hair. Different textures, porosity, curls, coils, all of that. Yes you heard that right! Everyone has different hair. I know it's easy to get wrapped up on Instagram, blogs, or YouTube looking at pictures and videos of different naturalistas hair and saying,  "I can’t wait until my hair gets that length, or I want HER hair". We have all been there! The fact is, your hair is your hair, and that naturalistas is hers. It's okay to get inspiration etc, but I have learned to embrace my own hair. Always remember you and your hair are BEAUTIFUL.  Learn to work with what you've got and you (and your hair) will be happier in the long run.
  • Patience. If you don’t have this in the natural hair world… man oh man! Patience is key when you are natural. On those wash days when I just wanted to give up, I didn’t. You just have to stay patient in every aspect (patience to see growth, patience to detangle, patience to wet set, lol). Trust me on this one. You will get to where you want to be, you just have to be patient.
  • Most importantly, seek a stylist when needed. I know we get to the point where we feel that we don’t need our stylist anymore, and that we can do it all on our own. Well I still seek a professional stylist when it comes to getting my ends clipped and also straightening my hair. So my advice is to seek a stylist when you feel it is appropriate. 
  • Lastly, HAVE FUN! Needs no explanation just have fun and remember it's only hair! Cut it if you want, color it if you want! Hey it's your hair! Remember that!
What have you learned since going natural?

This Ain't Yo Momma's Gray Hair...

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a year's worth of growin'!

Omisade writes:

What a difference a year makes, right?  For me, being natural is not hard. 22 years in, I feel like a G for sure---on  most days.  Cutting my hair is not hard,  but navigating my hair through the transition of that "in between" stage can suck. Especially now that the texture and flow of my hair seems different since I am totally gray and 2 years from 50. Gray hair is ORNERY! It's dry, wiry, strong and pretty much likes to free style on a regular. Finding the "right' product and being willing to switch up my regimen has been key. Here's some things that have helped me. 

This ain't yo mama's gray hair....

There are a bunch of products for "silver" hair that turn your hair that old church lady bluish purple (not a good look unless that's how you get down). I prefer to use products that are "sulfate free". I like to wash my hair with Pantene products because they have a range and they are sulfate free. I have also found that if I don't moisturize my hair---I have a swirl of little platinum tuffs everywhere. Before I wash my hair, I rinse it in the shower with warm water, co-wash and then wash with shampoo. It seems to make my hair so much more softer and manageable. I like Creme of Nature conditioners (the one with the Moroccan Argon oil in it) and Cantu. Coconut oil is my Frank's Hot Sauce, I put that ish on EVERYTHING! I seal my hair when it is still wet and that also seems to help with the proverbial dryness. I am also a big fan of Oyin Handmade Burnt Sugar Pomade. You only need a little and it smells so good. 

So this bobbie pin, a scarf and a gele walked in a bar...

Real talk, the transition from a taper to a fuller fro has required some straight up trickery! I keeps an arsenal in my car for any given hair catastrophe. When I was initially growing it out, it was too short on the sides to pull up into a puff so I would use bobby pins to create a faux hawk. Eco Styler Olive Oil Gel saves the day every time.  I would also give into days when my hair was clearly in charge and just "wrap it up B'. African Geles are my safe guard. I wear them for cultural and spiritual reasons and they have so much utility in addition to looking amazing. Now that the the hair is longer, I like to either pull it up into an awesome chunky puff, create a funky up do/protective style with bobbie pins leaving the front out or use my African fabric and pull some hair out in the front for a funky bang. I am looking forward to the top knot which was my go to syle when I had locs. 

Be wild and free...

The last thing I would say, is that I am lazy when it comes to my hair routine. People assume that I do so much, but I really only do a few things that work for me. I don't like to wrap my hair at night every night. I like to sleep. I also don't like to twist my hair every night...I like to sleep. So, sometimes, I just, go to sleep and when I get up in the morning, my hair is doing whatever it is going to do that day. If I like the organic free flow I see in the mirror, I go with it. A little coconut oil (cuzzzzz I put hat ISH on everything!) and I am out the door! 

Hope this is helpful!

The Broke College Student's Guide to Dope Natural Hair

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Financial stress in college is real, and in those times your survival mode kicks in. College students can be some of the most creative people, they have to be. Hours spent studying while working a non-paid internship or minimum wage job mean you want to do spend your limited leisure time and coins the way you want to. I decided to go natural in college, and with quality products starting at $10, I was not willing to spend $30-$40 for a full hair care regimen complete with a cleanser, conditioner, moisturizer, and styler. So, what did I do? I focused on moisture, and with my frugal budget I managed to upgrade my regimen at no cost. Here are the ways I managed to change my hair care routine in college without spending an extra dime.

Read On!>>>
Breakfast 
The next time you leave your dorm and head to the dining hall before class, take your conditioner! For what you ask? You notice that honey next to the biscuits station? Do you see where I’m going with this? Take the honey, pour it in a cup or small serving size bowl, head to your table (let’s keep this classy and discreet), and pour it in your conditioner. Honey is a humectant and will upgrade any daily conditioner to a deep conditioner. I know you're thinking that honey is probably hard to apply and rinse out of your hair but that is not true. Honey becomes less viscous when it interacts with water, so rinsing will not be an issue. If you are feeling guilty do not forget that you paid for my meal plan and university dining halls discard hundreds of pounds of food every day, so why not salvage it? Think of it as helping them to not waste food…that you already paid for.

Salad bar
Now it’s 12:30pm and you are hungry. You are racing to the cafeteria faster than grandma in a tracksuit working out at the mall. After you charge to the pizza station and bypass the salad bar, make your way back around to the leafy green section. After you drizzle ranch dressing on your pizza (I know I was not the only one), ask for a to-go cup and fill it with olive oil. This will make for a great pre-poo while studying before you wash your hair. Oh, and if you want to add shine to your hair, go ahead and ask for another to-go condiment container for apple cider vinegar for your ACV rinse.

Grocery store
Making a grocery store run for snacks with your girlfriends? Don’t pass up this opportunity. While you are stocking up on Golden Oreos and Easy Mac, mosey over to the produce section, snatch a few plastic produce bags, and grab an apple while you’re there. These bags are perfect for deep conditioning. They are better than the plastic bags at the checkout line because you do not have to tie them and it is easier to keep the heat compact.

Your closet
Before you throw away your old sneakers and go thrift shopping, remove the laces from those shoes and give them a wash. If hair ties are too tight and you can’t seem to stop losing them, consider using your old shoe laces to create a puff. This is perfect when you are heading to the gym to burn off those five slices of pizza and the French fries you scarfed down. Using a shoe lace will allow you to adjust the puff to the size you want and it is perfect for all lengths. No one wants to exercise with hair falling in his or her face and this quick trick is the go-to for all of your twist-out fails. Keep one in your purse or backpack for the days you have to run to class and sweat your hair out. 

How do you step your hair care game up for free?

Danielle Is Naturally Glam!

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Were you a transitioner or a Big Chopper? What was your journey like?
I have always been a naturalista. I grew up with my mother braiding my hair until I graduated from junior high school. Then I transitioned to getting my hair washed, blow dried, and flat ironed by my mother’s hair stylist. I continued to do that for the next 4-5years until college. In college, I finally started blow drying and flat ironing my own hair and also taking breaks to wear it naturally curly once I got into personal training. I’ve grown to love wearing my hair curly and using natural shampoos and leave in conditioners. Since college, my hair made a huge jump in growth, length, and thickness. I love experimenting with curly hair styles and colored tips.

READ MORE>>

Had you always embraced your texture?
I’ve embraced my texture more and more as I’ve gotten older. I appreciate my hair type and the uniqueness that completes me as an individual.


How did family and friends react to your decision to go natural? What was your response to them? 
My friends and family react more to how much it has been growing. I think the choice to never put relaxers or perms in it has benefited it greatly.

Describe your hair (fine or coarse, thin or thick, highly porous, low, etc.)
My hair is thin, springy/curly (3c type), and down to my waist when straight. However, it can tangle very fast.

What’s the craziest thing you’ve ever done to your hair? 
The craziest thing I’ve ever done was bleach it to get honey blonde highlights

What’s your biggest hair related regret?
My biggest regret is not being able to handle my hair care on my own sooner.


What's your current hair routine? How often do you wash, condition, and style? Favorite products! Deets!
I wash my hair every week when it’s curly and use leave in conditioners. I also use tea tree oil shampoos and keratin shampoo without sulfates and parabens. My favorite product is store bought olive oil for detangling and moisturizing.

What’s your favorite hairstyle? Where do you get hairstyle inspiration?
I can’t even name one style, but I love and have perfected the messy pineapple bun. So, I can call that my signature.

Who is your curl crush?
Mel B/Scary Spice and Tia Mowry.

How do you maintain your hair at night?
I switch it up; sometimes, I use a scarf and sometimes I sleep with it in a ponytail.


How do you maintain healthy length?
The key is trimming every few months to get rid of split ends, along with constant moisturizing.

What's the best thing about being natural?
The best thing is that I, along with other people, appreciate it in its raw state. Nowadays everyone wears clips ins, weaves, etc. It’s dope to be unique and never worry about trying to fit in or spend hundreds on new hair every other month.

Where can folks find you on the web?
You can follow me on instagram.com/liftedlotus and for hair care tips or personal training inquiries you can email me at liftedlotus1@gmail.com

DIY Natural Hair Clip In Extensions

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In this video, J. Joelle shows us how to create and style our own kinky hair clip-ins.  And get this, instead of costing upwards of 200 dollars, these will only cost you 10!  They're a quick, easy and chic way to add volume (and/or length) to your natural hair.

Watch Now!>>>



What say you? Will you try it?!

Redefining Yourself, for Yourself.

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"People like me more when they think I'm pretty."


I can't tell you when, but at some point in my childhood I began to believe this was true. This is what the media, my environment and even my mother taught me.

The media taught me to compare myself to touched up, perfect images and the more I looked like them, the more acceptable and loved I would be. It taught me to fix myself to fit certain standards of beauty and that life would be more charmed and happy if I did.

Read On!>>>
My environment taught me that being pretty was important. I looked around and decided pretty was a club and I wanted to belong. As a member of this club, I'd get special treatment. I saw it with my own two eyes, all the time, everywhere. Extra attention. Benefit of the doubt. Get-out-of-jail-free cards. Kindness and consideration. Most of all, being pretty gave you magical powers like confidence, charm and magnetism. And I wanted all of those things.

My mother taught me to invest time in making myself beautiful -- caring for my skin and hair, wearing flattering clothes, taking pride in putting myself together and presenting myself. But somehow I missed the reason behind it all. I believed that I should be doing these things for outside approval -- to please my family, to get the attention of a man, to show my 'rank' among other women, to win favor and feel special. There was no connection established between self-love and self-care, creativity and self-expression.

I wasn't aware that these beliefs were sabotaging my self-concept and undermining my confidence. I walked around with my distracting hang-ups and my pride and this unreasonable pursuit of perfection. Obsessing over how I looked, dressing to get any kind of attention I could get, then feeling very uncomfortable with the attention once I got it. Expecting to be known as one of the 'pretty girls' and feeling slighted when I was denied the attention I felt I deserved. Confused. Showing off. Showing too much. Doing too much.

My emphasis on appearance was buried deep in my subconscious, driving my actions, building walls and blind spots and bad habits, leading me down a slippery slope of insecurity. And I didn't even know it.

In fact, I actually thought I had good self-esteem until I had my daughters. Their perceptions and questions challenged me to observe and be honest with myself so I could teach them about inner beauty and self-love from a place of true knowing and not just concept.

I wanted to understand why it had always been so important to me to look a certain way. Why my blemishes and so-called imperfections were such a problem to the point where I couldn't go out and enjoy myself if they were showing. Why I was so obsessed with appearance. My preoccupation with beauty was driven by insecurity, not self-love or inspiration and I wanted to understand why and how and what I could do to change it.

Stripping down, learning to love my reflection without make up, without chemicals in my hair and without trendy clothes -- finding the beauty in all my womanly insecurities, has been exactly what I needed to trigger a shift in perception. To begin to appreciate my body for the miracle that it is and start taking care of myself from the inside out. I needed to shed some old skin and old ideas, redefining myself, for myself.

When we are in tune with our spirits, we feel beautiful on the inside, and we want to express it on the outside. Inner beauty naturally leads to all the magical powers we crave -- outer glow, magnetism, confidence, grace.

Without that inside-out dynamic, we find ourselves placing too much emphasis on the external package, excessively proud or excessively ashamed of our appearances and acting accordingly. Thinking that worth and status is dependent on how we look. Allowing how we feel on the inside to be determined by the response we get on the outside, instead of the other way around.

But a woman who delights in her appearance in order to honor her Creator, her spirit, and her vehicle for expression, that’s the kind of beauty I've come to believe in and this is what I will teach my daughters. It is more than caring about how you look, it is caring about how you affect people, how you speak to them without words, and how you inspire them with your presence.

How have your ideas about beauty and appearance changed over the years? Please share in the comments below!

15 DIY Hair Recipes for Almost Every Step in Your Regimen

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Below, you'll find a compilation of homemade mixes that I've used, as well as others that CN community members love, and shared for all of us to enjoy!

CLEANSERS & RINSES

 

Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse

Ingredients:
2 cups of water
1/4 cup of apple cider vinegar

Directions:

Combine the water and ACV into a bowl or cup. Slowly pour over hair, scrubbing scalp and hair to remove buildup. To smooth the cuticles and restore PH balance, you can also use this rinse as your final step after washing, conditioning and detangling.
A good ACV rinse can remove product buildup, restore the pH balance of the scalp and hair, promote blood circulation in the scalp--which can stimulate new hair growth--and give the hair a soft, healthy sheen.

Baking Soda Rinse


Ingredients:
2 cups warm water
½ cup baking soda

Directions:
Allow to dissolve, and apply to scalp and hair. Massage. Can be used after regular shampooing or in place of it. The consistency shouldn't be gritty, it should be smooth and easy to apply.

SuperCoils 'Marshmallow Rinse' for Detangling Ease


Ingredients:
1 cup hot water
4 teaspoons shredded marshmallow root

Directions:
Put the marshmallow root in a cup, then add the hot water and allow the mixture to sit for about 10 minutes, as if you were making tea. Strain the marshmallow out, and use the “tea” as a rinse for your hair.


 

 Herbal Hair Rinses


Ingredients (pick the ones that you need):
Catnip: Promotes healthy hair growth--many women on longhaircommunity swear by this stuff for long, strong hair.
Chamomile: Softens hair, soothes the scalp, lighten and conditions (people use it with honey to bring out natural highlights). Chamomile is also known to stimulate growth.
Horsetail: Helps brittle hair due to its high silica content.
Lavender: Stimulates hair growth
Nettle: conditions, improves texture, helps with dandruff, irritated scalp, and dry scalp
Parsley: enriches hair color and gives a nice luster
Plantain: great for dry, irritated scalp, dandruff, and seborrhea
Peppermint: stimulates the scalp
Rosemary: Acts as a tonic and conditioner, one of the best herbs to use, gives luster and body, stimulates growth, helps with dandruff, and brings out dark highlights in the hair.
Sage: Very effective in restoring color to graying hair, excellent for weak brittle hair
Saw Palmetto: good for thinning hair and hair loss
Thyme: good for oily hair and dandruff
Witch Hazel: cleanses hair

Directions:
After you've decided which herb(s) will get the job done, follow the steps below:
  1. Place the herb(s) in a pitcher (glass is ideal).
  2. Pour boiling water over the herb(s), cover, and steep for 10-20 minutes.
  3. Strain the mixture and allow the liquid to cool.
  4. Pour over your head after your regular shampoo, condition, and detangling session. Do not rinse.
You can buy your herbs in bulk from one of the following:

Bulk Herb Store
Mountain Rose Herbs
Herbco.com

DEEP CONDITIONERS

 Honey Deep Conditioner

Ingredients:
1/4 cup of honey
1/4 cup of olive oil

Directions:

Mix honey with olive oil. Heat in microwave oven to melt and apply to hair, then cover head with a plastic cap for 15-30 minutes. To ramp up the moisturizing benefits, sit under a hooded dryer or don a micro heat cap. 

Hair and Scalp Moisturizing Mask

Ingredients :
1/2 cucumber
1/2 avocado (pitted)
1/3 cup sour cream

Directions:
Blend and apply mask to hair. Cover hair with shower cap for a half hour, then rinse with cold water for a soothed scalp and moisturized hair follicles.

Pumped up DT

Ingredients:
1 cup of your favorite Deep Conditioner
1 tablespoon of honey
1 tablespoon of olive or coconut oil

Directions:

Mix and apply to hair in sections. Cover with a shower cap and sit under a bonnet dryer for 15-30 minutes. Rinse, and style as usual.

MOISTURIZING LEAVE-INS

Curl Defining Leave-In with Aloe Vera Juice

Ingredients:
8oz Light conditioner (Suave, Tresseme, V05)
5oz Distilled water
3oz Aloe vera juice
1-2 oz Coconut oil

Directions:
Combine all ingredients in a bottle, shake, and apply to damp hair. This mix provides moisture, definition, and shine.

Sheenalashay's Moisturizing Hair Mist


Ingredients:
8oz bottle
Water - Distilled Water is best (Fill the bottle 3/5th of the way)
Vegetable Glycerin - Purchased at my local Wholefoods Grocery Store and/or Amazon.com (Fill the bottle 1/5th of the way)
Olive Oil - Purchased at any grocery store (Add about 1 tablespoon)
Essential Oils - Purchased at my local Wholefoods Grocery Store and/or Drugstore.com (Add as much or little as you want)
Rose Water - Purchased at my local Wholefoods Grocery Store (Add about 1 tablespoon)

Directions: 
Combine all ingredients in a bottle, shake to emulsify and apply to damp or wet hair. 

Shake's Whipped Shea Butter

Ingredients:
8oz pure yellow unrefined shea butter
can of coconut milk
Olive oil
Coconut oil
Vegetable Glycerin

Directions
:
Use a hand mixer
Put all of the shea butter in a large plastic bowl
Add a few large spoonfuls of coconut milk and whip until smooth.
Add more and more, bit by bit, mixing after each addition until it's light and fluffy.
Add a spoonful or so of each oil and mix again.
Add a healthy squeeze of glycerin, and voila!

KurlyBella's Marshmallow and Burdock Detangler


Ingredients:  
15- 20 dried organic hibiscus flowers
3 tablespoons organic dried marshmallow root
3 tablespoons organic dried burdock root
hot water

Directions:
Bring a pot of water to a low simmer. Add the dried hibiscus flowers.
Simmer the flowers for about 5 minutes making sure your water does not boil.
Remove from heat and remove flowers.
Add organic dried marshmallow root and organic dried burdock root and stir them into the hot water.
Cover and let the herbs infuse for 15 minutes.
Strain and pour the liquid into a squirt or squeeze bottle (I like to use an old water bottle with the pop out top).
Use this mixture on freshly washed and clean hair and do not rinse out. Comb through your hair and style as usual.


STYLERS

Curl Defining Spritz

Ingredients:
9 oz of conditioner (VO5 Extra body, Suave Bio Basics, or Suave Naturals)
3 oz of setting lotion (use lotta body for extra body)
1 oz of glycerine (optional!)
1-2 oz of sweet almond oil/coconut oil/olive oil, etc. (I used 2 oz of coconut oil)

Directions:

Put all the ingredients in a bottle and shake to blend...
Add water until the consistency is to your liking.


This concoction results in a light styling lotion that would leave my hair soft, crunch free, defined, and moisturized. I used it to Wash & Go with great success-- curls popping everywhere!
My Aunty still uses this recipe from time to time. 


Sav8Sol's Moisturizing Spritz


Ingredients:
2 tbsp leave-in conditioner (your choice)
4 tbsp aloe vera juice
4 tbsp distilled water
3 tsp avocado oil (or) 2 tsp jojoba oil
2 tsp evoo oil
5 drops rosemary oil
** you can also substitute this spritzer as a creamy hair milk by substituting the (4 tbsp) aloe vera JUICE with (3tbsp) aloe vera GEL and eliminating the (4 tbsp) distilled water.

Directions:
Mix together in an 8oz spray bottle.

Flax seed Gel


Ingredients:
1 cup water
2 tbsp flax seeds
(optional) coconut oil

Directions:

Bring water and flax seeds to a boil and cook for about 10 minutes. Strain and keep it in the fridge for up to a week. Some people add other things, EO, Aloe, etc. But I just use the above recipe. Add a pinch of citric acid as a preservative

This will de-frizz, provide hold, shine, and definition.


**************************************


Homemade spritzes and butters are very popular on the hair boards, and can be incredibly beneficial. If you're a mixtress, please heed this warning, and make sure you're adding preservatives to your concoctions, and/or keeping them refrigerated. Tonya McKay of Naturallycurly.com suggests the following:
  • Make up a small amount of solution daily or every other day.
  • Make up enough solution to last for one week and store it in the refrigerator when not in use.
  • Make up enough solution to use for 1-2 weeks and add either natural or synthetic preservative drops to it in an amount specified in the literature.
When whipping up your mix, she directs us to use boiling water, clean hands, and a sterilized container. You can purchase grapefruit seed extract (a popular natural preservative) from many health food stores. Even your properly preserved mixtures should be placed in the fridge for safe storage. To read more from this article, click HERE.

Got fav recipes? Share them in the comment section below!

This article was originally published in 2010 and was recently updated for grammar and clarity.

Faux Locs for Natural Hair- The Pros and Cons

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 Vic Styles


Faux locs are a sexy and stylish protective style that allows you to see how you would look if you decided to rock real locs. Faux locs are a protective style that creates the illusion of real locs by winding extensions around sections of your own hair. They are growing in popularity and as more women rock them, some are finding out there may be concerns on whether or not they are damaging to one’s own hair. So I wanted to find out if this lovely and hot style is worth the beauty or too damaging to take the plunge?

Read On!>>>
I hate to sound like a story on Dateline discussing the dangers of the latest and the greatest, but are some women finding faux locs may be harming their tresses? Well, yes, some are but while there are plenty who do not it is only fair to see what all the hype on the damage is.

Some women are having a hard time adjusting to the extra weight of the added hair, since the style requires double the hair compared to a braid. Many assume that after they are installed that she would get used to them within a few days, but she did not and actually suffered neck and back pain. From hair? Yes, from hair! nine bags of hair compared to her regular four bags when she had her hair braided in the past was just too much for her to handle.

Extra strain on your scalp with the added hair can cause excessive tension. I’ve had long box braids before and never suffered from extra tension but I did suffer from thinning edges, which is a result of poor installation and/or not giving my hair a break. I cannot fathom what double the hair on my head would have done to my edges. When you figure the length of time you have them in, styling, flipping them around (of course you will, who wouldn’t), you can see how the strain may be too great for your hair and especially your edges.

If kept in too long your hair could naturally lock. This can happen with braids or a sew-in too, so this is more about protective styles but it needs to be mentioned. Worry less about saving money by keeping them in longer than you should and more about the health of your hair.

Watch


Conclusion
Faux locs are no more damaging than any other hairstyle that adds hair to your own hair with too much tension on the scalp. You cannot neglect your own hair and assume that no further maintenance is necessary. Your own hair must still be cleansed, moisturized, and conditioned.

You must also understand that there is more hair on your head than a normal application of added hair and length is a factor when getting them installed. The longer the locs the more tension will be applied to your scalp. If you already have damaged hair then adding that extra hair may not be a good idea and that goes double for thinning edges as that extra tension will only make your edges worse. This style is not a good idea if your hair is already damaged.

Aside from those precautions, this is an amazing and gorgeous style that is no more damaging than any other style if you practice proper hair care. Know what you are getting into and crave versatility. Enjoy your faux locs!

Follow Vic (pictured) here:

Vic Styles and Instagram

5 Benefits of Steaming Natural Hair

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by MaiCurls of GlobalCoutureblog.net

Is your natural hair extremely dry?  Hair steaming may be just what the “hair doctor” ordered when it comes to healthy, moisturized coils and curls.

Read On!>>>

What is hair steaming?

It basically means adding moisture in the form of moist heat (steam) to the hair strands. This can be done in a number of different ways such as using a handheld hair steamer, a standing steamer or even enjoying the steam after a long warm shower.

Why should you consider steaming?

1. Helps reduce breakage: the steam helps to add moisture and thus can make dry, brittle and thirsty hair supple, hydrated and healthy.

2. Lifts the cuticle to allow product/ingredient absorption: the warmth from the steam helps to raise the cuticle of our hair, which means that products/ingredients are more easily absorbed into the core. This can be particularly helpful for low porosity naturals that find it hard to get moisture deep into the core of the hair or products to be fully absorbed by the hair.

3. Enables hair stretching, less shrinkage and tangles: because the hair is hydrated, it usually means that there is less shrinkage which in turn means less tangles and knots. This makes it easier to detangle and can also lead to less breakage!

4. Refreshes curls without having to start over: you get to add moisture without having to soak your hair with water. This can be especially beneficial for those that suffer from dry brittle hair during winter and do not want to add water in the morning/night and perhaps risk getting a cold!

5. Helps clean the scalp and promote hair growth: the warmth from the steam can actually help fight through some product build-up/dirt on the scalp, making it easier to keep your scalp clean. A clean scalp is a healthy scalp and a healthy scalp means healthy growth. The warmth also helps stimulate blood flow in the scalp which again helps with hair growth.

When and or how often should you steam?

It really depends on how dry your hair feels, how often you need to wash your hair and how difficult/easy it is for products such as deep conditioners, leave-in conditioners etc. to penetrate your hair strands. In all likelihood, you will not require daily hair steaming however you might feel that 1 – 2 times a week gives you happy, hydrated hair that looks and feels lush, plump and truly hydrated.

Do you steam your hair? How often?

SHOW AND TELL- FIERCE FRIDAY!

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Hola Chicas!
Fierce Friday is a way to celebrate our natural hair, displaying our dopest styles and best hair days... for inspiration and motivation. Wanna be featured? All you have to do is upload your favorite pics to Instagram with the tags #FierceFriday and #CurlyNikki. Be sure to share a brief description of the style, where you were headed, why you felt amazing, etc.!





Hey y’all Top knot bun love for the gram’ @_cebelamour_


#curlynikki #fiercefriday rocking a braid out @kangeecard


Last minute selfies @bellange1991


Finally home! #natural #curlynikki @_itsgabrielleb
How to be happy? Stop comparing yourself to others & you'll see how beautiful you really are! @livenaturallylove

Celebrating 5 years since I #bigchopped #naturalhairanniversary .. aaand 10 #pounds down… @adrien.l.tillman

Fullness!! #teamnatural #teamnatural_ @amyaappleofficial


Working Out With Natural Hair

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Question
I have type 4a hair. I workout moderately - intense at least 3-4 days a week. I hear a lot of women saying they co-wash every time they workout but I don't feel the need to. My scalp is not irritated or itching by the end of the week if I only co-wash once between workouts. Is this a bad thing? Should I wash more frequently?

Read On!>>>
Answer
You can find multiple ways to persevere your style, but as Ivory.conley has found out, no one is giving advice on how often to wash your hair when working out regularly. Every curly does not want to be glamorous. Many curly girls just want to know the basics on caring for their tresses while they exercise and worry less about keeping a style. Neither concern is less important than the other, but both issues need to be addressed.

To answer the question, you do not have to wash your hair after every workout. For one, too much washing can compromise the health of your hair causing hygral fatigue, which causes elasticity problems that lead to breakage. Since excessively washing your hair can strip the hair of the natural oils, no one should be washing daily. A perfect alternative to washing your hair after every workout is just rinsing or leaving it alone. Also, there are some amazing products on the market that were created just for that sort of problem. It is important to knowing your own hair and whether or not you feel your hair needs to be washed after every workout. Ivory.conley has assessed her hair’s needs and realized it is not necessary for her to wash her hair but once a week with regular workouts.
What are the needs of your hair?

Some women wash their hair weekly, biweekly, or even monthly, so that must be determined prior to factoring in working out. If licensed cosmetologists advise weekly or biweekly cleansing, then you may have to increase it in order to remove the sweat from the scalp to avoid potential scalp buildup. Using witch hazel with a cotton ball to absorb the oil is great for in between wash days.
Preserving your style

Save Your Do Full Triangle Gymwrap was created by the lovely Nicole Ari Parker. It is a stylish headband with an edge control technology that minimizes sweat absorption into your hair. Moisture is whisked away from your tresses and not only does it preserve. Also consider using protective styles that expose the scalp (e.g. Havana twists, cornrows, braids) that make for easier access and cleansing.
Conclusion

Washing daily or after every workout is not necessary and may actually be detrimental to your hair’s health, but how you style your hair will determine how often to wash your hair when you workout regularly. The frequency will be determined by your own workout, hair, and needs. Listen to your hair and know that once a week is not a problem if your hair has no problem with it. Ariella from MsAriella89 shares her experience with working out (and being a Zumba instructor) with natural hair. It is a very informative video and she discusses how just wetting her hair is working just fine for her.



What's your hair routine when you're working out?

7 Ways to Get Past a Natural Hair Growth Plateau

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 by Kanisha of BlackNaps.org

Have you ever experienced a hair growth plateau? It’s when your hair can’t seem to grow past a certain length: be it neck length, arm pit length, bra strap length etc. This is probably due to some practices (or lack thereof) in your natural hair care regimen.  If you are currently at a growth plateau, you’ll probably find that hair growth isn’t the problem: retaining length is (your hair may be breaking off as fast as it's growing). It’s also possible that your hair isn’t growing as full or as rapidly as it could depending on how well you take care of your hair. It’s tough to come to terms with the fact that your hair isn’t prospering, but once you take steps to address the issue(s), you’ll be well on your way to longer hair at its healthiest.

Read On!>>>

1. Assess the problem.
What is causing your hair to stay at one length? There are a number of poor hair habits that could be the culprit; here are a few to start with:
  • Over-manipulation (can cause dryness, shedding, and breakage)
  • Rough handling of the hair (combing too hard, detangling improperly etc.)
  • Moisture overload (reduces elasticity and therefore weakens the hair)
  • Protein overload (results in brittle hair that breaks easily)
  • Defective styling instead of protective styling (not properly maintaining the hair during and after installing a protective style, leaving the protective style in for too long)
  • Misuse/overuse of hair tools such as combs, brushes, bobby pins, etc.
  • Overuse of heat styling
  • Using the wrong products for your hair
  • Using harsh chemicals: coloring/dyeing the hair (almost always causes dryness/breakage to Type 4 hair, especially when it isn’t maintained properly with regular conditioning treatments)
  • Not trimming often enough
  • Not following healthy hair practices such as: deep conditioning, detangling properly, and moisturizing and sealing
The list may not end here, but these are some of the more common ones to give you an idea of where you may be going wrong at. Once you know the problem, you can eliminate it and take steps to get your hair back on track. If the issue is heat or color, don’t be tempted to go back. Do whatever is necessary for the health of your hair, it’ll be worth it in the long run.

2. Trim it.
When you’re at a growth plateau, it’s likely that starting with a fresh trim will benefit your hair tremendously. You don’t want to try nursing damaged hair back to health. (Trust me, I’ve tried it myself). If you’re uncomfortable with losing length, you can protective style until your hair grows back or simply trim gradually. Once you have the damaged hair out of the way, you can focus on preserving and growing your healthy hair.

3. Take pictures.
Now that you know the problem and have cut away any damage, you’re ready to start with a clean slate. Take pictures! I cannot stress how important this is. When you don’t have a way to document your hair growth, you will feel like it’s going nowhere. But when you have pictures to look back on every milestone, you can really tell if you’re getting it right. 6 months or a year from now, you’ll be able to see that you are finally on your way to getting past your growth plateau.

4. Put it away.
For Type 4 hair, protective styling is almost always a bulletproof method in regards to retaining length. When long term protective styling, some things to remember are:
  • Never leave the style in for longer than 4-6 weeks
  • Moisturize and oil your scalp while you have the style installed
  • When you take the style out, remove any shed hair before wetting the hair. If you don’t, you’ll have a knotted, tangled mess on your hands and you will lose hair.
  • Give your hair a break for at least 1-2 weeks in between styles.
You can also do short term protective styles like buns or goddess braids which give you the freedom to wash your hair when desired. (When bunning, be sure not to bun too tightly and to switch up the placement of your bun every few days to keep the hair from breaking off in that area).

5. Go on a hair challenge.
When your hair has you in a funk, one of the best things to do is to go on a hair challenge. It’ll keep you from cutting all of your hair off on a whim because of sheer frustration. And it’ll give you something to look forward to and work towards. Mentally record and/or write down your goals and strive to achieve them. For example, I am currently on a 6-month no heat/protective styling challenge with my hair. For the first month, I’ve been co-washing my hair every three days and keeping it in buns. I flat ironed prior to the challenge and took pictures and I plan on flat ironing at the end of the challenge to see my growth.

6. Get inspired.
Check out other naturals whose length your aspire to have. It’s not to make you feel bad or down about your own hair, but to give you something to look forward to. Some of my personal favorites on Instagram are @hey_curlie, @chronicurls, @chigirlmakeup and @simplybiancaalexa.

7. Learn your hair.
While you’re working on getting past your growth plateau, make sure you utilize this time to learn your hair if you haven’t already. Try new products if you need to and discover whether or not your hair likes them. I used to wear box braids all of the time and having my hair out now while wearing buns has really given me time to learn my hair. I know what areas are drier than others and what areas have tighter curls than others. I’ve found products my hair said “eh” to and products that it absolutely loved. I have a regimen that works for me and my hair and I’m sticking to it because I’ve seen prosperous results.

You can and you will get past this growth plateau. This is not the end for your hair. You may be having some trouble now, but if you follow these steps, you’ll be able to get your hair where you want it to be. Have patience, show your hair love, and watch it grow.

What do you do when you hit a plateau?

Real Princess Hair, Though.

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When she wants to wear it down, this is our compromise...

Read On for Deets!>>>
So I get the,'can I wear it down today?' question at least once a month.  And while I love that she loves her hair and wants to experience it in all of its curly glory, all I can think is, 'but who's gonna detangle it, tho?'  So here's what we do--

  1. Start with stretched hair (an old twist or braid-out or an old roller-set will do ya-- I keep her stretched hair in french braids or twisted pony tails at all times, so it's usually detangled-- if not, I use my fingers and amla oil)
  2. Grab medium-sized sections (ain't got no time for parts) and twist using raw shea butter (I used shea butter and Organic Amla Oil)
  3. Take a twist, lightly wet the very end and twirl around your finger to create a coil/curl using your favorite curl cream (I used Jane Carter's Curl Defining Cream).  This creates a nice, neat finish and keeps the twists from unraveling. Repeat with the remaining twists.
  4. Rock a satin scarf or bonnet at night to keep the situation laid.

Opting for a butter instead of a water based styling cream gives her a nice sheen and optimal hang time, but after day 2 or 3 of constant hair whipping, the situation gets frizzy.  I usually re-twist the front pieces and put the rest in a ponytail or bun, like today--


    *For sleeker edges, begin twisting the front pieces with a curl cream right at the root.  and immediately tie on a scarf after all of the hair is twisted to lay that ish. 

    *For your own sanity, keep the twists chunky.  It makes re-twisting and take-down much easier.  

    Hope this helps!
    Nik

    What's your solution for the 'can I wear it down?' days?

    Erika Is Naturally Glam!

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    Tell me about yourself!
    I am a 30 year wife and mother of 5, (4 biological and 1 foster). I love God, and you can always catch me reading, dancing, and just enjoying life!

    Were you a transitioner or a Big Chopper? What was your journey like?
    I was a little of both. I let my new growth get about 5 inches long before I did the BC in 2013. It took about 2 months, so I was very frustrated. My relaxed hair was saying, "Relax girl" while my new growth was saying, "Turn up!" Needless to say I felt bi-polar with my hair.

    READ MORE>>


    Had you always embraced your texture? 
    I have always loved my natural curls, especially as a child. I loved my curly bush, but around 11 I started to really get into boys and they only liked girls with relaxers. So guess what I “needed" to have? A relaxer.

    How did family and friends react to your decision to go natural? What was your response to them?
    My family was very supportive. My husband loves my natural hair, so he was excited when
    I told them I was done with relaxers and weaves.

    Describe your hair (fine or coarse, thin or thick, highly porous, low, etc.) 
    My hair is very thick. It's also very curly and curls easily. I rarely have to use many products since leave in conditioner alone works very well.

    What’s your biggest hair related regret? 
    My biggest hair related regret is not staying natural my whole life and allowing society to influence me to do something I never wanted to do.

    What's your current hair routine? How often do you wash, condition, and style? Favorite products! Deets! 
    My current routine is co-wash twice a week, and I do tons of twist outs. I never straighten my hair. My fave conditioner is Garnier Fructis, and I live for coconut oil!

    What’s your favorite hairstyle? Where do you get hairstyle inspiration?
    My favorite hairstyle is the curly hawk. It's so stylish. I'm always on Instagram and YouTube looking for ideas.

    Who is your curl crush?
    My curl crush Tracee Ellis Ross!

    How do you maintain your hair at night? 
    I should twist and wrap it nightly, but I rarely do. I know, I know. Tisk tisk. I usually put it in a bun.

    How do you maintain healthy length? 
    I clip my ends every 2 months, and I do wear box braids every 2 months as well. They really grow my hair out.

    What's the best thing about being natural? 
    The best thing about being natural is the freeing feeling of appreciating the hair that God saw fit for me to have. It empowers me to live a natural and healthy lifestyle and has even helped me eat cleaner. Being natural just feels natural!


    Where can folks find you on the web? 
    All of you lovely folks may find me on Facebook under Erika Brewer James or follow me on Instagram @eclass_405series

    Transitioning Hair Tips You Can't Live Without

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    Congratulations, you’ve decided to go natural! Now you get to answer one of the most profound questions within the natural hair community: to transition or go for the Big Chop?

    If you’re not quite ready to cut your relaxed ends yet, then welcome to the wonderful world of transitioning! Here are a few tips that should help make transitioning to natural hair a bit smoother. You’ve got a bit of work ahead, but I guarantee it’ll be worth it in the end!

    Read On!>>>

    Take Your Time!
    The first and most important thing to remember when you decide to transition is to take your time. When I say take your time, I’m not saying you must grow out all of your relaxed ends. Rather, take transitioning at your own pace.

    This process can be as short as a few months or stretched out for several years, it all depends on YOU. Only you will know when you’re ready to let go of those straight ends. Take the time to learn your curls, love them and cultivate them, and I’m sure you’ll fall in love.

    When you transition on your own terms and no one else’s, you may find that you appreciate your coils and want to set them free sooner than you realized!

    Journal Your Progress
    This is one area that I wish I could go back and do over. Journaling your progress helps you keep focus on your hair goals and makes them tangible. When you first make the decision to transition to natural hair, you’ll began to see curly coils springing from your roots. You can actually journal this growth and let it be your guide as to when you’ll be ready rock them freely!

    Take note of your curl pattern, the density and texture of your new curls, and what products work or don’t work. Oh, and take lots of pictures too! You’ll want a visual look back on your journey, so be sure to document all aspects while you’re transitioning.

    Complimentary Styling
    When you’re transitioning, you will begin to notice rather quickly two prominent hair textures. Now is the time to find styles that will compliment your transitioning tresses. Often times, it is easy to run to a flat iron to try and match the textures, but this can cause undue stress on your newly forming curls.

    There are a wide variety of options to help you style your hair as you transition. If you choose to wear your own hair while styling, you can look to styles like two-strand twists, flat twists, straw sets, roller sets, twist or braid outs, buns and other fabulous curly hairstyles!

    Just as you can style your own hair, you can also add extensions to achieve these and other looks as well. You’ll always want to be cautious when getting kinky twists or braid extensions since you don’t want the hair pulled too tightly. Many ladies also choose to transition with wigs and weaves as well. Try a curly or kinky type of hair if you want to achieve a more natural look.

    Condition, Condition, Condition!
    Keeping your hair conditioned is essential as you are transitioning, especially at the line of demarcation, the weak area where your natural and relaxed hair meet. Deep conditioning will help soften your new growth and strengthen your hair, especially if you are still using heat products. The new hair will need lots of moisture and even your relaxed ends can benefit from the extra dose of love. Try adding in a deep conditioning and/or hot oil treatment weekly. If you do this consistently, you should notice a difference for the better in your hair. Deep conditioning should no longer be just a special treat!

    Quick Tips
    While transitioning, remember to keep your relaxed ends trimmed regularly, about every four to six weeks. This will help prevent any splits or damage from traveling up the hair shaft to the new growth. Once you start seeing your beautiful curls shining through, you may even consider doing mini chops to help expedite you being able to rock your natural curls sans relaxed ends.

    You can successfully transition to natural hair without doing a Big Chop! Transitioning doesn’t have to be hard, and I hope these tips help to shed a bit of light on the process. As you go through this journey, I’m sure you’ll develop your own tips that make it a little less stressful.

    Whether you transition for six months or two years, just remember to keep your ultimate hair goal of being natural in mind. Once fully natural, you’ll be certain to appreciate your natural curls in all their glory! Happy transitioning!

    Remedies for Natural Hair Loss and Thinning

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     by Sabrina via GlobalCoutureblog.net

    First off, any woman who feels this is not the post for them needs to rethink her situation. While it is true that men are more likely to lose their hair than women, thinning hair and hair loss are also common in women. Yes, we can suffer from hair loss and thinning hair and here are a few reasons why:
    • Stress
    • Pregnancy
    • Lack of protein
    • Hormones
    • Heredity
    • Dramatic weight loss
    • Lupus (or other illnesses)
    • Chemotherapy
    • Styling
    These are just a few reasons why some women experience hair loss or thinning hair and many of us will experience one or more of the symptoms above regardless of how hard we try not to.

    Read On!>>>

    We should all know by now that we all lose around 50 to 100 hairs a day. Most of us are used to a few hairs falling from combing, styling, washing, etc. For those of us wearing protective styles you see very little until it is time to take down the style. That is because when you do not manipulate your hair daily you end up with tons more when you finally take the style down. That happens becuase as many of those shed hairs have been trapped in the style and finally become released.

    Outside of protective styles some women are seeing a lot more hair falling out than normal. It can be one of the reasons above or something else entirely but when it does occur one can become scared, embarrassed, depressed or all of the above. It may seem like contacting a Dermatologist or a Trichologist is the answer for most but if you want to at least try a few natural options before seeking professional help here are a few natural remedies that have been said to combat hair loss and/ or thinning hair.

    Fix your personal problems
    First off, reevaluate your eating, drinking, sleeping and exercising. What are you putting into your body that may be causing this hair loss? Whether you are crash dieting, stressed over work, family or a relationship, or not sleeping; all of these can affect your health and cause hair loss. This is the simplest and quickest way to solve the problem outside of meds and even if none of these are causing your hair loss; eating healthier, getting enough sleep and exercising will positively affect your overall well-being.

    Herbal rinses
    Herbal and tea rinses have been used for years as remedies for hair loss. Many contain anti-inflammatory, anti-viral or anti-microbial properties that can thwart scalp ailments and make the hair’s environment healthier for hair growth.
    • Horsetail stimulates blood vessels in the scalp, promoting growth of new hair.
    • Stinging nettle stimulates growth of new hair while at the same time inhibiting the production of DHT – the hormone primarily responsible for male- and female-pattern baldness.
    • Bhringraj is an ancient Ayurveda herb considered to be one of the best natural remedies for revitalizing dormant hair follicles.
    These are just a few that can aid in revitalizing your hair’s follicles and allow for healthy hair growth.

    Oil Scalp Massages
    There are several essential natural oils like Rosemary which are known for their promoting hair growth. Add them to a carrier oil that will also assist and use as a scalp massage to the affected areas or your entire scalp. For one it is soothing to do and relaxes you (especially if stress is on of the components of your hair thinning) but it also stimulates the hair follicles.

    “Use your fingertips and a bit of Argan or coconut oil to rub in a circular motion for several minutes before you shampoo,” says John Masters, owner of John Masters Organic Salon. Mary Lupo, MD, a clinical professor of dermatology at Tulane Medical School.

    With our without the essential oil, oil massages will increase circulation to the scalp and that may give the hair follicles the nutrients they need for hair growth.

    Garlic Oil
    Garlic oil contains allicin, a natural substance that can improve blood flow to the scalp, get rid of any bacteria or fungi living on the scalp and hair, and give life to damaged follicles. Garlic nourishes hair by stimulating blood flow to the scalp. You can use it directly on the scalp or by using hair products that contain garlic in them for hair shedding.

    To make your own garlic additive for shampoo or conditioner, crush up a clove with a press or a mortar and pestle, then mix it with the amount of shampoo or conditioner you intend to use. Be sure to give your scalp a good massage as you work the product through your hair, then rinse.

    Aloe Vera
    Aloe vera contains enzymes that directly promote healthy hair growth and with its alkalizing properties can help bring the scalp and hair’s pH to a more desirable level, which can greatly promote hair growth. Aloe Vera gel contains polysaccharides and glycoproteins, and some believe they can stimulate new skin growth. Aloe Vera is an excellent natural moisturizer and skin conditioner. It can reduce flaky, itchy scalp and reduce dandruff and this can make the scalp a more conducive environment for healthy hair growth.

    There is nothing better than sound medical advice so if you feel a natural remedy is not the answer or if you have tried one of these solutions with no change then seek a medical professional.


    What do you use for thinning hair?

    Thick or Thin Moisturizers: Which Is Better?

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    As a cosmetic chemist, I am always looking for novel ways to deliver the best results to my target consumer using techniques and delivery methods that make her regimen more convenient. I often relate this process to be very much like cooking. There are hundreds of ways to make a cake, and even the smallest of changes to the recipe or procedure can change the end result. Similarly, hair and skin products are made up of a number of different types of ingredients that have different functions and purposes, and together they deliver certain results that they couldn’t deliver alone.

    It is commonly said that you can’t judge a book by its cover and this also applies to hair products. One misconception that I often hear is the consumer’s correlation between product consistency with overall effectiveness of the product providing moisture and slip to the hair. However, consistency (or viscosity which is the technical term) is only one of many factors that contribute to the effectiveness of a product. The consistency of a product is commonly used to improve the delivery of a product or to help provide weight to the hair mold it into the shape or style that the user is attempting to achieve. Although emulsifiers and thickeners used to thicken products are often great conditioning agents, they are not necessarily the primary conditioning agents in the formula.

    Read On!>>>
    What’s really happening with thick products?
    Many ingredients lay on top of the hair fiber to help smooth the cuticles to lay flatter, which attributes to the hair feeling smoother, softer, and looking shinier. Thicker products commonly have ingredients that serve this function, but some of the best conditioning polymers that provide the ideal tactile feel of the hair do not drastically change the consistency of a product and can be found in thinner products such as conditioners and foams. We often associate a product’s effectiveness by determining if the product absorbs into the hair or “penetrates” the cuticle layer, but the truth is that the molecular size of most ingredients is too large to bypass the openings on the cuticle layer. Don’t be alarmed. This is not necessarily a bad thing because ingredients that are substantive to the outer portion of hair fiber are commonly what provide the slip and softness that consumers often associate with moisture.

    Confusing Softness for Moisture
    Here’s a common misconception that most consumers don’t realize…scientifically the only ingredient that can add moisture to the hair is water, whether it be in liquid or vapor form. As consumers, we often confuse moisture with softness or lubricity. Due to the fact that this is a common and universally accepted concept in the industry, brands often promote and make claims around products being more moisturizing even though what the consumer is feeling may not technically be considered moisture.

    Moisture is still an important variable in maintaining healthy hair, but the trick is to infuse as much moisture in the hair and seal it in using non-penetrable ingredients that are light enough to not weigh the hair down, but substantive enough to last for long periods of time to provide the softness we crave.

    Why thickness doesn’t guarantee effective detangling
    The pH of a product is also an extremely important variable in product formulations because the pH of the hair can alter the permeability level of the cuticle layer. An easy way to explain pH is a measure of the level of acidity or alkalinity in an aqueous solution. The pH scale runs from 1 – 14, with 7 being the neutral point. Therefore, anything under 7 is considered acidic and anything above 7 is considered alkaline. In acidic conditions, the hair cuticle layer constricts causing the cuticle scales to close tighter, making the hair smoother, less permeability, and easier to detangle, because the strands have lesser friction with a closed cuticle. In alkaline conditions, the hair swells and permeability is increased due to the cuticles expanding or “lifting” creating more space for molecules to penetrate between the cuticle layers into the cortex. The average pH of healthy hair is approximately 4.5 – 5.5, making hair slightly acidic. Therefore, products with higher pH levels (including water which has a pH of 7) can cause the hair to swell causing this effect. Conditioners are products that often have a lower pH (an average of 4 – 5) which help the cuticle layer to close back after being exposed to higher pH conditions.

    Thickness doesn’t guarantee penetration
    The molecular weight (MW) of an ingredient varies and determines its size. The larger the MW, the less likely it is able to penetrate the cuticle later. The opening on the cuticle layer varies by individual, but in its resting state only allows for molecules smaller than 10 Daltons to penetrate. In a swollen state after hair has been exposed to very high pH conditions, molecules as large as approximately 500 Daltons may be able to penetrate. To provide some context, one water molecule is approximately 180 Daltons. There are very few ingredients that can penetrate the cuticle layer, which is why it is critical to formulate with materials that are highly substantive to the hair fiber to help lock moisture.

    As you can see, there are a number of scientific variables happening at a microscopic level that contribute to how a product performs. As consumers, we can easily start to translate common product experiences into what we perceive to be “product laws,” but this can handicap us from being open to experiencing unconventional products that may deliver the same or better results using different methods. There are always advances in cosmetic science and the ability to combine new and novel ingredients together to perform in unique ways. Therefore, it is important to keep an open mind when trying new products because a new combination of ingredients that may look and feel different from the norm could be easily become your new favorite product!

    Thin, Moisture-Rich Products
    These products may not feel thick, but in our experience they are just as moisturizing as your thicker formulas.
    SheaMoisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Leave-in Conditioner
    Creme of Nature Argan Oil Perfect 7 Leave-in Treatment
    Karen's Body Beautiful Sweet Ambrosia Leave-in Conditioner
    Yes to Cucumber Color Protection Conditioner
    ApHogee Curlific Moisture Rich Leave-in Conditioner
    Curl Junkie Curl Assurance Smoothing Lotion
    Koils by Nature Moisturizing Shealoe Leave-in Conditioner

    Do you typically choose products based on thickness?

    Perm Rods on Dry Natural Hair

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    Hola Chicas!

    Watch as Shekia Renea rocks a perm rod set on her dry natural hair.  Spoiler alert: the resulting curls are full, bouncy and flawless.

    Watch Now!>>>


    Summer Tips for Natural Hair

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    by Emilia Obiekea of AdoreBotanicals.com

    It’s summer time! We know that means fun in the sun, playing in the water and tons of outdoor activities. Many people forget to protect their hair while they are out having fun. Just as your body needs sunscreen your hair needs a layer of protection as well. After all the fun you may notice your ends looking a bit frayed or raggedy. The best thing to do is trim the damaged ends and start taking care of your ends as a preventative measure. Who wants unnecessary length loss? No one! The following will help to avoid hair damage while enjoying your summer.

    Read On!>>>
    Swimming
    • Prior to swimming:
      • Wet your hair with water and coat in oil (such as coconut oil). This will prevent your hair from absorbing chlorinated or salt water. The hair will swell less.
    • When you are done swimming:
      • Cleanse your hair by clarifying, shampooing, or using a cleansing conditioner of choice.
      • Moisturize your hair as normal.
      • Apply a bit of oil to your ends in a smoothing motion. This prevents the likely hood of them fraying.
      • Always condition your hair after cleansing. It does not always need to be a deep conditioner. Using a quick rinse out conditioner is good for regular use.
      • If your hair is very dry and needs a bit of a boost try doing a hot oil treatment or oil rinsing. They are very effective.
    Protect Your Hair Color
    Regardless of if your hair color is natural or chemically altered, the sun can damage all hair. This is more likely to happen to those of us with dyed hair but all hair is vulnerable to lose its luster due to constant sun exposure.

    You can protect your hair simply by wearing a cute hat with a brim and moisturizing your hair very well prior to enjoying the outdoors.

    Frizz Woes
    I personally love frizz. When my hair was relaxed I hated when it would frizz. Now that I’ve been natural for approx. 6+ years I adore my frizz. When my style is too perfect I rough it up a bit lol.

    For those that don’t enjoy rocking frizz this tip is for you.
    • Avoid using products that have humectants, or other ingredients that act as humectants, high on the ingredient list. If a humectant is in the top 5 ingredients listed…that product won’t be your friend today. Just have to leave it for another day.
    • Use anti-humectant leave in products.
    • Use a silicone based serum on your hair. Your hair can be dry or freshly moisturized. It will still provide the necessary level of protection needed to maintain your hair in its current condition. A little goes a long way. Using too much can result in limp/weighed down hair. No one wants that.
    • In a hurry? Just mist your hair with an anti-frizz spray or a humidity blocker. Comb, brush or smooth it through the hair. Focus on your problem areas.
    Hair Styles
    Wear your hair in simple, stress free styles. Tight braids or styles can damage your hair due to the tension of the style. This can cause the hair to break or tear and can also cause damage to your follicles. Great styles to wear are lose buns, braids, twists, etc…whatever is simple and doesn’t pull your hair is great. Just don’t leave it that way and neglect to wash it after swimming.

    Heat
    Reduce the amount of direct heat used on your hair. Air drying is optimal for most. If you do blow dry, do it on a low setting using the tension method.

    If you have any other tips for hair care during the summer feel free to share them in the comment section.
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