Joelle Is Naturally Glam!

June 9, 2015, 6:09 am

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Were you a transitioner or a Big Chopper? What was your journey like?
I began my journey in May of 2010. I started wearing protective styles such as braids and twists to allow my hair to transition. After 8 months of wearing these protective styles, I decided to big chop. Then, for my prom at the end of June, I cut my hair again, this time into a fade. Beginning my journey was difficult especially between the time of my big chop and getting it cut by a barber. I had no knowledge of how to manage my hair so I wore it very plainly, often dry and pulled back with a headband. It was not a good look. Having a barber cut my hair into a style allowed me to gain more confidence in my hair texture, propelling my desire to find new ways to style my hair. 

READ MORE>>

Had you always embraced your texture?
At first, I didn’t know what to do with my hair. It’s not that I hated it; it’s just that I couldn’t see its full potential. I loved the feeling of not having to go to the hair salon every 2 weeks, but it was definitely challenging to keep my hair soft and moisturized. However, once I discovered Eco Styler gel and saw my curls POP for the first time, I really embraced it.

How did family and friends react to your decision to go natural? What was your response to them? 
My family was NOT supportive. My Mom especially did not approve and constantly made negative remarks (which is ironic now because she is natural). Me being hard headed already defiantly ignored the remarks with an “I’m going to do what I want” attitude.

Describe your hair (fine or coarse, thin or thick, highly porous, low, etc.)
My hair is very thick with high porosity. I don’t really follow hair typing, but I’ll guesstimate that I’m a type 4. My crown is looser with S-shaped curls. The sides closest to my ears are the kinkiest with very tight coils. My nape has loose coils. Having 3 hair textures on my head makes styling very interesting every time because I’ll experience various levels of moisture retention and frizz.

What’s the craziest thing you’ve ever done to your hair? 
 I dyed my crown with blonde highlights. This was the first time I had ever colored my hair.

What’s your biggest hair related regret?
I don’t think I have any regrets with my hair. Everything I did, I learned from. If I had product mishaps or bad hair days, it only made me improve my technique.

What's your current hair routine? How often do you wash, condition, and style? Favorite products! Deets!
On washday, I section my hair into 4 parts and spray each section with water making sure to saturate my hair. Using castor oil (which works better than conditioner for me), I finger detangle each section and twist them up.  I place a plastic cap over my head and let it sit for 15-30 min. I dilute sulfate-free shampoo with water in an applicator bottle and apply it directly to my scalp in each section, massaging with my fingertips. I haven’t even hopped into the shower yet! It helps me save water. After massaging my scalp thoroughly, I rinse my hair in sections. Next, I apply deep conditioner and further finger-detangle each section. Once I rinse out the conditioner I have two options: 1. Hop out of the shower, dry my hair with a tee shirt, and apply my leave in to prep for a twist out. OR 2. Stay in the shower to do the LOC method for my wash and go. My hair must be soaking wet to achieve a wash and go.

What’s your favorite hairstyle? Where do you get hairstyle inspiration?
My go to is the twist out or flat-twist out because it keeps my hair defined and stretched. I get style inspiration from all the lovely natural ladies of YouTube!

Who is your curl crush?
I love, love, LOVE CharyJay. When I first went natural, I couldn’t find anyone doing tutorials with my hair texture until her. She saved my self-confidence and my hair.

How do you maintain your hair at night?
 I don’t wrap my hair because I’m a wild sleeper and it falls off anyway. I use a satin pillowcase.

How do you maintain healthy length?
I trim my hair often. If finger detangling is becoming difficult and I’m noticing knots, I know it’s time for a trim. Especially with colored hair, I have to trim about every 3 months.

What's the best thing about being natural?
I love the versatility of being natural, the confidence I’ve gained, and the overall health of my hair. My hair has never been this thick and full until going natural. I love my curls. My personality shines through my various hairstyles.

Where can folks find you on the web?
You can find me on Instagram at jo_withthe_fro.

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Senegalese Twist Crown Up 'Do and DIY Hydrating Mist Recipe

June 9, 2015, 6:49 am

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by Antoinette of AroundTheWayCurls

This video is a simple updo for Senegalese twists. All you need to complete this style are bobby pins.

Keep in mind you want to hydrate your real hair while they are in the twists. The easiest way to do that is to create a hydrating mist and spray your hair both at night and in the morning.  

DIY Hydrating Mist Recipe:
-2-TBSP Leave-In Conditioner
-1 TBSP Coconut Oil
-1 TBSP Aloe Vera Juice
-Remainder Water
-Shake Well and Spray

Read On!>>>

*Disclaimer*

If you follow us on Instagram you’ll know that while I loved my twists, they unfortunately, were not for me. My hair was far too thin and fine for them. I left the twists in for about a month and after, I did I experience a lot of breakage due to the weight of the hair and the amount of updos I wore for work. They didn’t feel too tight but at times, they felt too heavy. There was just too much pulling at my roots. Oddly enough however, the hair that was not being ripped from my scalp was pretty happy and healthy. LOL.  This told me that the  moisturizing mist worked but the weight of the twists did not. So, I still recommend them as a protective style just not for women with fine or damaged hair. You must have that real good healthy stuff to rock these. Oh well, you can’t win them all. I tried and my hard headed/big headed self will probably try again and complain about being bald when I take them out.

Whateva. At the end of the day it’s just hair. Right?

Have you tried Senegalese twists? What was your experience?

Protective Styling 101- Natural Hair Care and Length Retention

June 9, 2015, 6:57 am

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DIY Loc Extensions!

Via African Naturalistas

It's protective styling season for many of us, but before you call up your hairstylist, please take the time to read this post in full.

What is protective styling?
The definition of this term varies from person to person and blogger to blogger. But I define protective styling as any style that protects your hair from physical, chemical and environmental disturbances.

Physical disturbances involve daily styling, combing, and any curl/coil alteration such as twists, braids, "out styles", up-dos, stretched hairstyles and the like.

Chemical alteration involves heat and color treatments.

Environmental disturbances involve elements/pollutants from the air which can bind to the hair strands and cause damage. Environmental disturbances also involve extreme weather conditions such heat and frost.

The cumulative effect of the above can be detrimental to the health of our hair and a hindrance to hair growth.

Read On!>>>
While some of these disturbances are inevitable, some of them can be avoided or minimized by simply putting the hair away to rest for a while. Protective styling is a great way to avoid physical disturbances and reduce the effects of environmental disturbances. Depending on the style of choice, you can actually retain more length when your hair is in a protective state in comparison to when it's out.

Who should be doing protective styling?
- Those with fine hair which is prone to breakage even when handled with great care
- Those who tend to do too much with their hair without giving it any break
- Those who live in an extremely cold, hot and/or windy climate. As well as those who live in a polluted environment
- Those with a busy schedule
- Those in the show business
- Newbies who aren't yet comfortable with changing up a style every now and then

Why should you protective style?
- To protect your hair from yourself! Your hair needs a break from all the twisting, bantu-knots, up-dos, flat twists, blow-outs and what not. In other words, it needs a break from overmanipulation.
- To protect your hair from the scorching heat, wind chills, blazing cold, smog, car pollution, and other environmental debris.
- To preserve the ends so they stay on your head much longer than they would if you're always twisting, bending and stretching them daily and nightly.
- Gives you some extra time to spend on other things at night and in the morning. And depending on how long the style is kept in for, you can spend the 2 hours you would have spent on the weekends twisting your hair on other productive activities like reading.

When should you do protective styling?
- When you feel your hair hasn't gained significant length over the course of a few months
- When you know you'll be busy for a while and won't be able to spend as much time on your hair
- When you'll be traveling or going off somewhere and are unable to pack up your home salon to take with you on the trip
- During extreme weather climates such as winter and summer

How should you protective style?
-You could get some practice from YouTube. Depending on the style, I suggest you stick to tutorials on hair that's similar to your texture and length. This way, you can see how your hair should turn out. Once you've gotten comfortable with your hair, then you can start watching tutorials by women with a different hair texture and length for inspiration and additional hair tips.
- You can either choose to use hair extensions or only your hair.
- You can choose styles such as single twists, braids, corn-rows, flat twists, and classic buns

Where should you protective style?
- You can either do it by yourself in the comfort of your home or have an educated stylist on natural hair care do it for you. I always emphasize finding educated stylists over professional ones because there are so many professional stylists but very few of them are actually educated on natural haircare.

Do you utilize protective styles in your regimen? What are your favorite ones? 

Protect Your Cuticle: The First Line of Defense for Natural Hair

June 10, 2015, 7:02 am

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Fig. 1: Undamaged hair

Tonya McKay writes:

As a polymer scientist with a love for biological structures, I find hair and skin to be extremely fascinating systems. Human hair is an intricate composite structure comprised of keratin proteins, lipids, polysaccharides, water and pigment particles. All of the individual components are complex and perform very specific functions. Those of us with curly hair are concerned a lot about our hair’s texture and porosity (a popular buzz word of late). These two factors are primarily based upon the structure of the cuticle — the outer layer of our hair.  

The scanning electron microscope image in Figure 1 shows highly magnified detail of the exterior surface of a strand of human hair. The external layer is called the cuticle, and is much like bark on a tree. Both the cuticle layer and tree bark are made up of many smaller, individual pieces (called scales when referring to the cuticle) that work together as one overall unit to perform a function. The job of the cuticle is to provide protection to the hair shaft from mechanical and thermal damage, while allowing moisture in and out as needed. The cuticle structure is an amazing work of nature, because it is strong, yet flexible, and is made up of many pieces, which allows it to act as a seal to protect the inner cortex of the hair, and yet also allows it to be permeable, or porous.

Read On>>>
The center of the hair shaft is referred to as the cortex, and is a very complicated structure filled with many different substructures and clusters of structures made of keratin protein, lipids, and other matter. Water provides the means for the necessary hydrogen bonding between the keratin fibers to occur that is essential for the maintenance of hair strength, elasticity and integrity. Without moisture in the cortex, the hair becomes thin, frizzy, and much more prone to permanent damage and breakage. Thus, the cuticle layer performs a very important duty by protecting this delicate interior of the hair and helping it maintain the proper balance of moisture.

Structure of the Cuticle

The cuticle itself is a multi-laminate structure, like stacked sheets of paper, composed of fatty acids, proteins, and other cellular matter. Below is a description of each layer.

• Epicuticle — This surface layer of the cuticle is made up of lipids and proteins and is also found on the bottom of the stacks of layers.
• A-Layer — This layer is comprised of proteins very high (35%) in cystine, which enables the layer to be highly crosslinked. This layer gives toughness to the hair and also provides physical protection from heat and other potential threats.
• Exocuticle — This layer has approximately 15% cystine, so it is less strong and tough than the A-Layer, but provides similar protection.
• Endocuticle — This layer contains only 3% cystine, and so is only very lightly crosslinked. This means that this layer is the only cuticle layer to swell in the presence of water. This causes the entire cuticle to swell and lift away from the hair shaft, resulting in a ruffled cuticle that allows the passage of material both into and out of the hair.
• Cuticular Cell membrane Complex (CMC) — This layer is made up of polysaccharides and several lipids (fatty acids). This layer acts as the glue that holds the cuticle together and holds it to the hair shaft.

Cuticle Damage

Fig. 2: Chemically altered hair

A perfectly healthy hair that has not been exposed to harsh chemical processing, prolonged sunlight, or rough thermal and mechanical treatments (often called “virgin hair”) will have a cuticle layer such as the one shown in Figure 1. The individual keratin scales lie very flat, have fairly smooth edges, and overlap one another, forming a flat, tight sheath around the interior of the hair shaft. A hair in this condition is highly protected from the environment, retains the most moisture, and generally is more reflective, giving the hair shine and gloss. (This latter feature is variable, depending upon the color and the degree of curl of the hair).

Unfortunately, most of us don’t have hair protected by such a beautiful, intact cuticle. As hair ages, it is continually exposed to sunlight, water, pollution and external mechanical forces. UV radiation from sunlight can break down some of the keratin bonds and cause deterioration of scales and cause them to lose some of their structural integrity. Mechanical forces such as combing, bruising, curling, pinning up or binding the hair can all catch the edges of cuticle scales and ruffle or raise them, creating a rough surface more prone to tangling and tearing. Rough treatment can even pull cuticles off entirely.

Water causes the endocuticle layer to swell, which lifts the entire cuticle and creates a rough surface. This leaves hair more delicate and susceptible to tangling and damage from friction between adjacent hair strands or from mechanical forces. For this reason, wet hair should be treated very gently and conditioners must be used to reduce friction and combing forces. Hair exposed to high humidity should be protected by extra conditioning and anti-humectant products in order to avoid this effect, which can lead to very damaged summer hair. (Read an article about summer hair here.)

Fig. 3: Damaged cuticle

These (scary) images show strands that have had extensive damage done to the cuticle layer from chemical processes (coloring, perming, relaxing). It is evident from viewing these images that once the cuticle layer is damaged, the cortex becomes exposed and the entire hair is extremely vulnerable to virtually any threat. The best solution in these extreme cases is to have a professional stylist trim the hair.

Next month I will discuss how the cuticle layer and our treatment of it affects porosity and what that means for our hair.



References:

Syed, A.N., Askar, N.A., “Structure of Hair” Powerpoint presentation, www.dralisyed.com, July 3, 2008
Robbins, C. R., Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair, Spring, 4th Editions, Dec. 14, 2001
Gray, John, “The World of Hair”, P&G Hair Care Research Center

Easy Vintage Hairstyle for Natural Hair

June 10, 2015, 7:19 am

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Wedding season is on and popping!  Here's another hairstyle to get you right!

Watch Now!>>>

7 Mistakes Many Naturals Make

June 10, 2015, 7:24 am

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by Tammy of CurlyChics

1. Not detangling
Never, not once did I properly detangle my hair, if at all. I would simply shampoo and condition my hair, throw some Motions foam wrap lotion and Paul Mitchell foaming pomade and keep it moving. I barely used a comb! Now, it was cute but that’s it. It was not healthy in the least bit. Surprisingly I didn’t lose a lot of hair; however, I was not retaining length either.

2. Sleeping without a satin cap/scarf
At night I would lay my head down straight gorilla style! The only time I slept with a satin cap/scarf was when I straightened my hair. WTW? I know...makes no sense, which leads me to the next mistake on my list…using excessive heat.

Read On!>>>

3. Using excessive heat
I was one of those naturals who flaunted her curls during the summer months and danced with the devil (flat iron) the other 9 months out of the year. I shampooed my hair once per week, grabbed the flat iron and smoothed it across my hair with no heat protectant, no nothing. Just 350-400 degrees of direct heat on my blonde tresses. Can you say dry and brittle?

4. Shampooing too frequently
When I wore my hair straight, I shampooed weekly, however when I wore it curly, I shampooed every single day. I eventually cut this down to every other day out of pure laziness but until then, I cleansed every single morning! That’s what natural hair meant to me – get up, shampoo, hit the door. This was the case no matter the length. I wore my hair extremely short and cropped and as it got longer, I used the same practice.

5. Not knowing product ingredients
I did not ever look at the ingredients on the bottle of the products I used. The farthest I ever went to research ingredients was to only use gel that did not contain alcohol. *blank stare* yep that’s it. Sulfates? Parabens? Huh? No clue what any of that was. You would think a licensed cosmetologist would know these things right? NOPE! Ingredients were not touched on at all during my 2 1/2 years in Cosmetology school.

6. Not adding or sealing moisture
Natural hair is by nature, dry, but I just assumed that’s the way it was supposed to be. I thought all brown people had dry hair and it would remain that way unless you added some time of oil to it. Not natural oils, but more precisely silicone laced serums, which leads me to my next mistake.

7. I thought having natural hair meant automatic growth.
I didn’t realize that the key to growth and retention was moisture. No moisture = dry hair = breakage = no retention. Simple right? Not to someone who has not researched and paid attention to their hair.

What’s that old saying? If I knew then what I know now….man, I hate that it took me so long to become aware of what was going on with my hair but I am so grateful to know it now. I don’t know everything, no one does, but I think I’m going in the right direction.

Keep up with Tammy on her Blog, or on Twitter and Facebook!


What mistakes can you add to this list?

Is It Really Real?

June 11, 2015, 7:42 am

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 by GG of AllTheManyLayers

Somewhere along the way we decide who we are and what our lives are going to be about. Nothing wrong with that, right? The problem comes when we create a substitute life or an image that we present to the world (and to ourselves) that is not real.

The substitute life is made up of the identities, judgments, expectations and assumptions we develop to deal with life as we see it. We want people to see us a certain way, we want to avoid certain situations, we want to control what happens and what doesn't. Over time we develop coping mechanisms and defensive walls to protect the image of this substitute life.


Read On!>>>

Let's say you are naturally very sensitive and as a child you are repeatedly told that it is not acceptable to be this way.

The more you are admonished, rejected and teased for being sensitive, the more deeply ingrained your beliefs become about what you need to show and what you need to hide in order to get by.

This is the beginning of the substitute life.

Maybe you hide your sensitivity to feel safe. Maybe you start trying too hard to be the opposite of sensitive and you become aggressive or mean-spirited. Maybe you become excessively cheerful, acting as if nothing bothers you, everything is funny. Whatever it takes to cover the inadequacy that is built up from being constantly rejected for being your natural self.

In any case, we weave together these beliefs and strategies -- all based in thought and ego -- to create a picture of an artificial life. A life where we can't be completely authentic and still feel safe and still thrive. The more we believe in this artificial life, the more we struggle to accept life as it really, really is with all its imperfection and uncertainty.

In this example, the truth is that you are sensitive so any life you lead where you pretend not to be, is a substitute life. Any life you lead where you are denying your true nature and circumstances is a substitute life and it moves you further away from your purpose.

Make a list of all the images, identities, judgments, and expectations that make up your substitute life. Think of it as your "should's" and "supposed to's". List as many as you can.

E X A M P L E:

I'm supposed to get married and have children.
I'm supposed to be loud and aggressive.
I'm supposed to put everyone's needs before my own.
I'm supposed to believe what my parents believe.
I should be happy with what makes others happy.
I should do what others expect me to do.
I should diminish myself to make others feel more comfortable.
I should never show my vulnerable side.

After you make your list, look at the decisions you've made about who you are supposed to be and think about how these decisions are altering your life experience. Let's keep this going!

Green Tea to Thicken and Strengthen Natural Hair

June 11, 2015, 7:49 am

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glam idol, Luna

 

 by Sabrina Perkins

Matcha literally means “powdered tea” and it is a bright emerald-green tea powder. It is a finely milled green tea powder that was the staple ingredient in traditional Japanese tea ceremonies in the twelfth century. It is packed with healthy benefits and has a soothing distinct flavor. Matcha leaves are grown in several places, but the best comes from Japan and the most popular growing places are in the southern part of the country like Uji, Nishio, and Shizuoka. Touted as the highest quality powdered green tea available, the nutrient-rich young leaves are handpicked from the tips of the shade-grown Camellia sinensis plants. After being steamed and stemmed they are stone-ground into a delicate powder and stored away from direct sunlight and oxygen to preserve the color and antioxidant properties. When you are drinking matcha tea you are ingesting the entire leaf and receiving 100% of the nutrients in the leaf. That’s right, you are getting the more potent source of nutrients than regular green tea.
 
Read On!>>>

What are the benefits of matcha green tea?

It is high in antioxidants, which aid in fighting against UV radiation. It boosts memory, concentration, energy levels, and endurance. All green teas naturally contain caffeine, but since one is consuming the entire leaf, you may get three times as much caffeine than a regular cup of steeped tea, about the amount in a cup of brewed coffee. Drinking matcha tea has been shown to increase metabolism and help burn fat along with having detoxing abilities. The young leaves are deprived of sunlight early on and this increases the chlorophyll production. This is its brilliant green color and it becomes a powerful detoxifier naturally removing heavy metals and chemical toxins from the body.
Matcha green tea for hair

It is packed with antioxidants, polyphenols, and EGCg, so it is no wonder we are discussing what it can do for your tresses. It contains vitamin B also known as panthenol and by drinking the tea or applying it to your scalp matcha green tea helps to strengthen the hair. Many who drink the tea have found it to make their hair softer, shinier, and thicker. There is a hair growth mechanism with matcha green tea, so people suffering from genetic alopecia have found it to be beneficial according to an article published in the Phytomedicine Journal.

Matcha green tea is also loaded with amino acids, which are building blocks for protein needed for hair growth, repair, recovery, and immunity. It also soothes scalp ailments like dandruff and psoriasis. Whether you drink it or apply it directly to your scalp and tresses, this green tea is a wonder to try.
 
Nourishing hair tea butter

Mix finely ground matcha tea with either shea butter or coconut oil to create a butter consistency. Apply to scalp and massage gently. Allow to sit for at least 30 min. before rinsing out and styling as usual.

Here are a few products with the magical match green tea already in them if DIY is not for you: Belle Butters Shea And Matcha Green Tea Butter and Aubrey Organics Green Tea Conditioner.

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Angela Is Naturally Glam!

June 11, 2015, 7:50 am

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Tell me about yourself!
My name is Angela (aka Ms. Curly Girl).  I am 37 years-old and the mother of two amazing children, ages 5 and 10.  Originally from Indiana, I have lived in Georgia for over 10 years.  I work full-time for a Superior Court Judge and attend school part-time, while learning how to juggle it all as a single-mom.

Were you a transitioner or a Big Chopper? What was your journey like?
Due to a pretty traumatic time in 2012…I decided to chop off my hair and just start over.  I don’t really think I realized I was doing a “big chop” until after it was done.  I went from mid-back length to a curly bob.  This unexpected journey has literally been life-changing for me.  It has opened up my creativity and allowed my daughter and I to create mscurlygirl.com.

READ MORE>>

Had you always embraced your texture?
As I child, I was embarrassed by my hair.  I was bullied because I looked different.  As an adult, I loved my hair, but used relaxers and battled between keeping it straight or letting it be naturally curly.  It’s only been in the last year or more that I’ve thrown all judgment and opinion out the door…and loved my hair the way I should!  No turning back now!

How did family and friends react to your decision to go natural? What was your response to them? 
My mother has yet to transition and still doesn’t quite understand the natural-movement, but she is my biggest supporter.  Everyone has been very excited to see all that has come of my decision to stop relaxing my hair and allowing my curls to have a mind of its own! ☺

Describe your hair (fine or coarse, thin or thick, highly porous, low, etc.)
My hair is very thick and very curly.  On most days it cooperates, but it has a mind of its own on others!

What’s the craziest thing you’ve ever done to your hair? 
Does sitting quietly as my mother cut my hair in to a mullet in the 5th grade count?  YIKES…that was the craziest thing ever!

What’s your biggest hair related regret?
My biggest regret would have to be when I would straighten my hair so that I could blend in.  I would try to deter people from noticing my big hair, and straightening it was the way to make that happen.

What's your current hair routine? How often do you wash, condition, and style? Favorite products! Deets!
I cleanse and deep condition my hair once a month.  I co-wash at least once a week.  I am also a SheaMoisture junkie!  I love their Jamaican Black Castor Oil line as well as the 10-1 Renewel System.  KinkyCurly Knot Today is my go-to leave-in/detangler.

What’s your favorite hairstyle? Where do you get hairstyle inspiration?
Big hair don’t care is my motto!  My hair is usually down and free to roam, or in a high bun to maintain the beast!

Who is your curl crush?
My curl crush would have to be my 10-year old daughter, Chris.  Her ability to love herself unashamed has been a true inspiration for my journey.  I’m a very proud mom.

How do you maintain your hair at night?
While I used to put my hair up in a pineapple and wrap it with a silk scarf, my hair has gotten a lot longer and it’s been easier to just put it in a bun.

How do you maintain healthy length?
I usually get my trims every six months or so to help with healthy hair and keeping a nice length.

What's the best thing about being natural?
The absolute best part about being natural is connecting with a community of ladies that inspire and encourage each other.  It’s been such a great and humbling experience.

Where can folks find you on the web?
You can find me on the following outlets:
Facebook:  Ms.Curly Girl
InstaGram: @mscurlygirl25
Twitter: @mscurlygirl25
Youtube: Ms.Curly Girl
Website: mscurlygirl.com

Preventing Split Ends and Breakage for Longer Natural Hair

June 12, 2015, 6:19 am

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by ANYASVIDA

Have you been natural for a while yet you feel as if your hair is just not growing? I certainly felt like this for the first five years of wearing my hair natural--I am now seven years natural and I have started to pay more attention to the habits that were preventing my hair from retaining length. The first step I took was to stop dying my hair.   Hair dyes can make our hair even more fragile, brittle and prone to dryness. Within a few months after dying application you may begin to notice breakage if you use color treatments. The hair color you see in the video below was my last hair dye and I was growing it out. The step I took to retain length was trimming split ends on a regular basis. 

I would like to stress that damaged ends cannot be permanently reversed, no matter how much you try to smooth the ends and no matter how much a product you use. Products assist with anti-breakage--in other words, maintaining healthy strands that prevent our ends from thinning out or splitting anywhere from the middle to the ends of the shaft. There are products that can help your split end stick together and decrease the rate at which it splits further, using a complex known as PEC. But neither of these product categories will actually fix the hair permanently once the end is split. In the video below I demonstrate how split ends work by using a piece of electrical wire and outline 3 steps you can take to be split end free.

Read On!>>>

Tip 1: Avoid daily activities that may cause split endsTry to minimize daily manipulation of the hair, for example excessive brushing and combing or manipulating it into a hairstyle every day.
 
Tip 2: "Poo on top."Use the technique “Poo on top, condition on bottom.” In other words use shampoo on the scalp only and add plenty of conditioner and leave-in conditioner on the ends of the hair.

Tip 3: Detangle your hair properly with good detangling tools.
If you like to use a tool to detangle then use wide tooth combs on wet hair, but if you have the patience finger detangling is your best option.

Tip 4: Dry your hair properly with a T-shirt or a Microfiber Towel or Turban.Traditional terry cloth towels will remove the much-needed moisture from your hair. Next time you shower use an old t-shirt to dry your hair instead of a towel, you should see less frizz and dryness right away.

Tip 5: Skip that blow drying your hair after you wash it.
Instead style your hair wet and let air dry. If you absolutely need to use the blow dry, then turn down the heat and blast at low temperatures.

Tip 6: Learn to have second and third day hair.
Styling and re-styling your hair every day is manipulation that can lead to damage. The less hair manipulation the less you’ll experience rapid split ends.

Tip 7: Protect your hair from the sun.
Learn how to effectively prevent your hair from getting sun burned.

Tip 8: Use ouch free hair accessories and tools.Stay away from accessories that has metal connector or doesn’t have elasticity. Do not use hair tools with metal edges or brushes that tug and pull against the elasticity of the hair.
 
Tip 9: Stop using chemicals.
Hair dyes, chemical treatments, and hair products with alcohol and drying agents will only aggravate any dryness in your hair. If you currently use any of these treatments you will find a noticeable difference when you stop using them.

Tip 10: Treat your hair 50/50.
In order to have healthy hair strands it is important to give your hair moisture and protein treatments on a 50/50 ratio. What I mean by that is alternate between moisture and protein treatments every time you wash your hair. I wash my hair every two weeks, so every month I give my hair 1 moisture and 1 protein treatment.

Tip 11: Trim your ends right now.
The best time to start preventing your hair from Split Ends is right after you get your hair trimmed. So if you haven’t trimmed your hair in the last 2 months then this will be Step 1 for you. If you follow these 10 Hairlove Tips to the T, then instead of trimming every 8 weeks, you can go a bit longer, not exceeding 16 weeks at a time.

Tip 12: Stop wetting your hair every day.
Consistently adding water to your hair every day. Water is a natural humectant but too much of it every day can affect the strength of the hair shaft, causing it to weaken, split or break.

What do you do to prevent split ends?

Amanda Jean- "Temporary color is a fun and simple way to jazz up your fro!"

June 12, 2015, 6:28 am

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via Global Couture, LLC

Tell me a little about yourself and your hair journey.
My name is Amanda Jean Jacques. I am from the beautiful Caribbean island of Dominica. I come from a family where hair has always been a big deal. We all had lots of hair; my mom, dad and my older brother and sister all had locs, but the decision was never forced on us. I am so thankful we were able to make our own decision because I was always, and still am too spontaneous to make such a permanent decision with my hair.

Read On!>>>

How long have you been natural? Have you always embraced your curls?
I have been natural all my life. Having natural hair back in the Caribbean has always been encouraged and appreciated. As a young girl, I can remember looking forward to my next hairstyle for school the next day. I was never too fond of the actual process of getting my hair done, but I always loved the end result. My love for my natural hair didn’t come until later in life. I was always fond of my hair, but I never really appreciated its true beauty until I became more confident in my skin. It wasn’t until my early twenties, when I began to shed my insecurities that I developed an overwhelming pride in my hair, skin and my culture.

What motivated you to transition? Were you a transitioner or a Big Chopper& why?
About two years ago my mother was diagnosed with breast cancer and she had to go through chemo and radiation therapy. She made the decision to cut her hair off before it started to fall out, and about two weeks later I surprised her by cutting off all my hair as well. I had made the decision to not let her face her insecurities alone, she was not happy about it at first but after a while she came to appreciate.

How would you describe your hair?
I actually had to do some research to answer this question because I have never been into hair typing. Before I big chopped I would flat iron my hair at least once a month, so over the years my hair texture changed and had a looser curl pattern (3b-3c). Now that I have completely stayed away from heat, I would definitely say my natural curl pattern is somewhere between a 4a & 4b.

What do you love most about your hair?
I absolutely love how versatile my hair is. I’m sure that’s a favorite for all naturals. I love that on first day hair I get more of a tamed curl and by day three I wake up to a big curly fro! I love that each curl is different depending on the day and what product or styling tools you use.

What has been the most memorable part of your journey? Has it been easy or difficult or both?!
Sharing my hair growth journey with my mom and seeing her gain her confidence back as her hair grew was by far the best and most memorable part of my hair journey. I also had to face a lot of my own insecurities when I cut my hair. For a long time my hair was my clutch, and so was my mom’s. We both went from having really long hair to almost nothing. It wasn’t easy but we got through it.

What are (or were) some of your favorite transitioning hairstyles or current dos’?
My go-to hair style for my short hair was finger coils. Those lasted about three to four days. Now that my hair has grown much longer, I live for wash and goes. I have tried twistouts in the past, but I can’t seem to get the definition I like. Plus, it is too time consuming. I’ve been experimenting with color in the past year and a half. I went from blonde to red, now I’m rocking blue hair. I love how color can spice up and instantly bring some life into any hairstyle.

What have your experiences been as a ‘natural’? Any memorable reactions from family or others?
No one in my family was happy when I cut my hair off, but they all slowly started to warm up to the idea. As for everyone else, I kept my reason for cutting my hair private so most people at school just thought I did it for style purposes. They weren’t too happy about seeing my hair gone but they loved my cut and I got many compliments on my TWA.

What is your hair regimen?
I have always been a minimalist when it comes to products and styling. As a college student, I’d much rather go spend my money on some good food than to drop thirty bucks on an 8 oz bottle of styling cream. In my search for effective and affordable products I’ve come to rely on the Aussie Moist products to shampoo and condition my hair, and ecostyler gel as my styling product. I also love to mix peppermint oil with any other essential oil because I am obsessed with the tingling feeling it gives.

What are some of your favorite natural hair websites,YouTuber’s, or blogs?
My favorite YouTuber by far is Taren Guy. She was the first one I discovered and I’ve been a loyal follower since. Her energy and vibe is addictive.

Where can people find you for more information?
You can follow me on Instagram @miss_aelle or you can follow my Tumblr page @ http://shebecamequeen.tumblr.com/

Any tips on staying confident with shorter hair?
During my twa phase I became addicted to lipstick and sunnies. Those are two must haves for my ladies with shorter kinks. You can’t go wrong with a bold lip and a pair of shades on.

What advice would you give someone who wants to experiment with color?
I would say just do it! It took me a while before I decided to experiment with color but I found myself getting bored with my hair and needed to try something new and bold. There are so many options to choose from I was literally in sally for an hour trying to decide. When I lightened my hair I used and ordinary, out of the box dye. But for my brighter colors I wasn’t ready to commit all the way so I went out and bought some temporary hair mouse and spray and just went crazy. It was very simple,the color slowly fades out during the week and completely washes out in the shower. For any of my natural ladies who are finding themselves at a road block with their hair, temp color is a definite fun and simple way to jazz up your fro.

Global Couture is trying to spread the word about embracing your natural hair. Love your HAIR, if it is wavy, curly, kinky or coily.

See more at http://globalcouture.blogspot.com/ and Follow us on Facebook, Twitter,Instagram.

Are you naturally fierce? Email us to share your hair journey at globalcouture@aol.com

SHOW AND TELL- FIERCE FRIDAY!

June 12, 2015, 6:29 am

≫ Next: The Importance of Hair Porosity in Natural Hair Care

≪ Previous: Amanda Jean- "Temporary color is a fun and simple way to jazz up your fro!"

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Hola Chicas!

Fierce Friday is a way to celebrate our natural hair, displaying our dopest styles and best hair days... for inspiration and motivation. Wanna be featured? All you have to do is upload your favorite pics to Instagram with the tags #FierceFriday and #CurlyNikki. Be sure to share a brief description of the style, where you were headed, why you felt amazing, etc.!

From wash and go to twist out. I can be so indecisive at times #Her #BeYou #Twistout  Only product used was @lovelottabody wrap me foaming mousse @curlssodope

Trying to decide if I should retouch my highlights for the summer. My hair is growing faster than I realized. These dark roots takin over. Wat yall think? @brandilou88

READ MORE>>

Im loving the sun.. #amazingnaturalhair #ouidad #kinky_chicks1 #curlyhairkillas #curlygirl #bighairdontcare #Teamnatural_@killabee069

Headed to a job interview #FierceFriday #CurlyNikki @vincent2for2

Embrace the curls. #natural #relaxerfree #curlyhairdontcare #curlynikki #carolsdaughter #mixedchicks @blaxican876

#fiercefriday #curlynikki Still happy with my decision to do the "big chop"; got great results with Shea Moisture's Coconut Hibiscus line. It was very quick & easy to get ready for work. @loraincd

Naturally Glam!! #ornithadanielle #redfro #bornnatural #sofyhphotography #naturalhairproducts #naturalfro @danielle_the_scribal_prophet

Flexirod set done on wet hair #flexirods #flexirodset #naturalhair #naturalhairdaily #curlynikki #fiercefriday @niece426

@karma_styled

Happy Friday! I found a new green juice spot. Bout to go check it out *wiggles toes* @iriediva

The Importance of Hair Porosity in Natural Hair Care

June 15, 2015, 8:42 am

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 Photo Courtesy of pRoy

by Amanda

 

Your hair’s porosity is a great place to start if you need help finding products. It is determined by how tightly or loosely bound the cuticle is along the hair shaft. Low porosity hair is tightly bound, making it more challenging to absorb moisture, while high porosity hair is loosely bound or missing layers, making it challenging to withhold moisture. A lot of people associate high porosity hair with color-treated hair, but aside from genetics these are not the only ways someone can acquire high porosity hair.


Read On!>>>

Chemical processing
When using permanent hair color the hair’s cuticle is being lifted and the current pigment is being altered, which by its nature is a damaging process. Dyeing your hair can transform the current porosity of your hair from low or normal porosity to high porosity. And if you naturally have high porosity hair then permanent hair color may not be the best coloring option, as high porosity hair struggles to maintain moisture so hair color and other chemical processes would only worsen this problem, and excessive dryness leads the breakage. This is why many women who color treat their hair change their regimens to incorporate products that preserve their hair color and address their protein and moisture needs. This could also apply to regular Brazilian keratin treatments.

Heat styling
Thermal styling with blow-dryers, flat irons, curling wands, and other heat tools withdraw moisture from the hair. JC from The Natural Haven says: “High or prolonged heat can physically and irreversibly change the natural structure of protein.” Although you may not experience heat damage, which manifests by altering your curl pattern or excessive dryness, the process is damaging even if it is not detrimental to your length retention or does not alter the curl pattern. Excessive heat styling can take your healthy low or medium porosity hair to high porosity, which leads to brittle hair that is susceptible to breakage.
 
Ends
The ends are the oldest parts of the hair. They tend to experience the most dryness and usually result in split ends and single strand knots. This is why people encourage sealing your ends with a butter or oil to reduce the amount of moisture depletion from your hair. If you do not trim your ends regularly then you are likely to have ends that are high porosity while the length of the hair is normal to low porosity.

Overmanipulation
Each hair strand is unique. It consists of three layers: the cuticle (outer), cortex (middle), and medulla (center). The cuticle is estimated to have five to twelve layers at any given time and when you consider the manipulation from styling and maintenance, this could vary on each strand. Before you start thinking that you need products to address each strand of hair, that is unnecessary; this is not equivalent to caring for predominately virgin hair with a purple bang or platinum blonde ombre ends. Simply keep trying different products to see what works for you.

All heat, chemical, and mechanical damage is cumulative. According to JC from The Natural Haven, “If you heat treat and damage the cortex, it stays damaged. Your hair conditioner and gentle treatment can help prolong the life of the damaged hair but ultimately it is damaged and the damage will continue to progress.” The severity of the damage and your hair goals will determine how you care for your hair. Some people with low to normal porosity hair never experience high porosity hair while those who experiment more should either change their products, deep condition more frequently, and incorporate protein treatments in their regimen. Don't be afraid to explore different styling options, just be mindful of your choices and adjust your regimen accordingly.

Follow pRoy here:
Instagram, YouTube, and Steelfeatherlaceelephant

Heatless Curls Tutorial for Natural Hair

June 15, 2015, 8:52 am

≫ Next: Nikki Does a B&E

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Tiffany Nichols writes:

I wanted to share this video tutorial on how I created a head full of heatless curls on my natural hair.

Many naturalistas have not achieved successful roller-sets or rod-sets, mainly due to the fact that their hair hasn't completely dried before removing the rods/rollers. In this video I share another technique that can be done in order to make sure your hair will be dry and yield you a head full of great, bouncy, and springy heatless curls.

Read On!>>>

Nikki Does a B&E

June 15, 2015, 8:52 am

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 #RunningThroughThe3WithMyWoes

Hola Chicas,

So I'm still in the Lou and we were invited to my cousin's 70th birthday party. We went to the restaurant as a fam (my parents, Gia, Gma, Dr Daddy and I) and had a good, wholesome time. As the party drew to a close, the young peeps started looking at our watches like,'what's next tho?' I had a cousin (Cuzzo) in from out of town who also has a young kiddo... she never gets out and we both had sitter situations!  So I convinced her to join me and Dr, daddy on a double date with his bestie and Kappa brother, Eric, aka Nookie. We pre-partied a bit (I was the designated, tho) and ended up on The Landing. We walked in the most popular club on the strip and it was... dreadful.  You know how it goes--

  

Read On!>>>

And after making a request for Future or Drake and being told, 'I'm sorry but I was told to refrain from playing that kinda music by management', we bounced. We went back to the car and engaged in a good ole' fashioned parking lot turn up.

Nookie, Cuzzo and Dr. Daddy

 

 

With f up some commas blasting from our speakers we of course attracted a few folks that wanted to partake in the ratchetness. One couple was hella cool, danced a bit, talked ish and asked where we were headed to next. 

 

Meet New Friend #1 (blue shirt) and New Friend #2 (gettin' it in the dress).  Apparently they were new friends as well, as they had just met at the last club and decided to go home together. #ButThatAintNoneOfMyBuisness

We were going to the same place (the east side- East Saint...  #Oz #Trouble) so we decided to mob...  trailing their red Challenger across the river. We arrived safe and sound and parked side by side.  Cuzzo had to pee terribly so the two of us bailed out of the car, but before we could made a bee-line for Oz, New Friend #2, riding shotgun in the red Challenger, needed help getting her strappy, knee-high stiletto boots back on (her ridiculously swollen feets, lol).  I attempted to stuff them joints back in, but it was not happening, so Cuzzo and I ran for the club while Dr. Daddy, Nookie and New Friend #1 stayed behind to help New Friend #2 get right.

Fast forward an hour into the turn up and Dr. Daddy looks to me and says- 'you got the keys right... and my phone?'  He knew I didn't have that damn shit. And that's when he remembered that he put them down in New Friend #2's seat while he tried to help her strap her shoes back on. While Cuzzo and I whipped and nae nae'ed our way through the club looking for the new friends,  Dr. Daddy poked his head outside and saw a red sports car still parked next to ours.  ScoobyDoo style, we split up and searched the entire club with no luck.  Finally, Nookie heads outside to see if they were in the car and he comes in with a slow walk with his head leaned to the side, like he had just lost a bunch of money at the casino, and he says, 'they gone, sis'.  

Apparently that red sports car parked next to our car was a Mustang... not the Challenger.

That's when we realized that we didn't know these people at all.   All I knew was that New Friend #1 drove a red Challenger with 'big ass rims' and was wearing a red shirt (he wasn't tho... I'd make a terrible eye witness).  We didn't know their names, their phone numbers, where they were from or where they were headed.  As a matter of fact, they didn't even know each other! #ButThatsNoneOfMyBusiness

 

The whole crew (Dr. Daddy, Nookie, Cuzzo and I) are all on that enlightenment tip so instead of panicking we enjoyed the adventure.  As we saw it, we had two options... get mad and go home believing that our keys, car and new iPhone 6 belonged to St. Louis now... OR, to #RememberToRemember, calmly problem solve and continue the turn up.   We chose the latter. 

I called Dr. Daddy's phone 50 times with no response. That's when Nookie reminded Dr. Daddy about that iPhone tracking app.  Dr. Daddy had just lost a new iPhone 6 last weekend at a hooka bar (St. Louis has it now) so this time, he knew to cut that GPS on. We tracked the phone to a popular club strip in St. Louis, on the Missouri side... across the river.  So we hailed a cab (not an easy feat in East Saint) and told him to take us to the little blue dot where the phone was.  And there sat New Friend #1's car. Parked and locked with Dr. Daddy's phone right there on the seat, posted up next to our keys. New Friends were no where to be found, tho.  

After a quick walk down the block (hoping to run into them), a call to the cops (absolutely no help) and YouTube searches of how to break into a locked car, I called a LockSmith.  I shared, 'Hello, I need some assistance getting into a car to get my keys and phone...'  I didn't, however, share that it wasn't MY car, lol.  He said it would be 100 dollars and that it would take him 45 minutes to get to us.

Bet.

So we waited, talked ish with passerbys on the street, and laughed about our Hangover-esque shenanigans that somehow only happen to us.   Just before the LockSmith drove up, Dr. Daddy and Nookie told Cuzzo and I to call a cab and wait for them around the block.  We were pretty sure that what we were about to execute wasn't completely legal, so we needed a get-a-way cab and Cuzzo and I wanted no involvement.   We hid behind a restaurant patio wall and within moments heard the Challenger's car alarm sounding off.  I text messaged Nookie and he confirmed that the mission was accomplished, money was exchanged, the personal effects had been retrieved and they had locked his car back and left this note--

"Dear New Friends, 

We had to go in your car to get my phone and keys. Didn't even break the window.  You're welcome.

Cordially,

Strangers"

 

Dr. Daddy and Nookie swooped us (laughing at our scary butts crouched down behind a brick patio wall), we hopped in the cab and headed back across the river to the East Side.  But it was 5am and the club was closing.  The one next door wasn't tho, so we popped in for a dance or two and then headed home, triumphant.  I walked in the door at 7am. #AnotherOneForTheBooks

Moral of the story...don't leave valuables in plain sight, because apparently LockSmiths give no shits. #NoNewFriendsEither

---

3 Must Haves For Your Natural Hair Shampoo

June 15, 2015, 2:30 pm

≫ Next: 6 Reasons Your Natural Hair is Not Longer

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by Nicole Harmon of Hair Liberty

In my opinion, your shampoo may be the most important product in your arsenal. I say that because a good shampoo keeps your scalp healthy (which means better hair growth) and makes your hair easier to comb. A bad shampoo will lead to drier hair, scalp irritation, and unstoppable frizz. Your shampoo is truly the first step to smooth, manageable hair. You NEED a good shampoo in your life!

The best shampoos contain:
• Sulfate-free cleansers to prevent excessive dryness and scalp irritation
• Cationic ingredients to condition your hair while you cleanse
• pH adjusters to balance the pH of the shampoo and prevent unnecessary cuticle damage to your hair

Sulfate-free Cleansers

Have you noticed all the “sulfate-free” shampoos popping up? It sounds like classic marketing hype, but there are a few good reasons to avoid sulfate-based cleansers. Every cleansing product, whether it’s shampoo, dish soap or laundry detergent, contains surfactants. Surfactants are the ingredients that allow oil to be dissolved from a dirty surface. If you put dish soap on a pot and leave it to soak, you’re waiting for the surfactants in your dish soap to break up the grease left from your food. Sulfate-based surfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate have been used in shampoo for many years, but current scientific research has found them to be significantly irritating for the scalp and drying to the hair.

Does that mean your hair will drastically change if you use a “sulfate-free shampoo”? Probably not. Most women are using sulfate-based shampoos because that’s the majority of what’s on the market. Even if a shampoo contains sulfates it can still be formulated to work well for your hair. However, I want you to have the most up to date information and the reality is there are better options for cleansing our naturally dry strands. To find the gentlest shampoos, look for products that contain at least one of the surfactants listed below in the top 5.

Gentle surfactants to look for:

• Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
• Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
• Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
• Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate

Harsh/Drying surfactants to skip:

• Sodium Laureth Sulfate
• Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
• Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
• Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
• Sodium Myreth Sulfate
• Saponified Oils
• Soap

Conditioners and Cationics

You should condition your hair at every step of your routine…during cleansing, after cleansing, and before styling. It probably seems like shampoo can’t cleanse and condition at the same time, but cosmetic chemistry makes it possible. You know how clothes get stuck together in the dryer and they make a popping sound when you pull them apart? That happens because of something called static charge. Curls and coils naturally have a negative charge that causes constant frizz and fly aways. You can make your hair smoother and easier to comb by choosing a shampoo that contains positively charged conditioning ingredients called “cationics”. The ingredients listed below spread over your hair while you lather the shampoo and they stay locked to your strands while dirt and product residue rinse away. The cationic ingredients in your shampoo will increase the effects of your conditioner.

Cationics to look for in your shampoo (the more the better):
• Amodimethicone
• Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
• Polyquaternium-7
• Polyquaternium-10
• Polyquaternium-11
• Polyquaternium-44
• Polyquaternium-47

pH Adjusters

Is your shampoo pH-balanced? Chances are it is, but does that really matter? The answer is actually yes! The pH value of a liquid tells you whether it’s an acid (like orange juice) or a base (like baking soda mixed with water). pH values below 7 are acids, values above 7 are bases. Skin and hair are made of keratin proteins and all types of protein are sensitive to pH. Our skin and hair can better maintain their natural strength when they are kept at acidic pH values between 4.5 and 6.5. Manufacturers don’t make shampoos with pH values below 4.5, but there are a few shampoos out there that are above 7. When the shampoo is basic instead of acidic, the outer cuticle of your hair will swell excessively when you lather up. When your hair dries later, you’ll be left with the kind of volume you don’t like…stubborn frizz and tangles. Shampoos that are pH balanced help the cuticle resist unnecessary swelling.

Most shampoos sold at drugstores and beauty supplies will be pH balanced. It’s standard practice for manufacturers to add pH adjusters to shampoo. If you’d like to test the pH of your product at home, I recommend Micro Essentials pHydrion plastic pH indicator strips.

Recommended Shampoos
All of these shampoos are sulfate-free and safe for color-treated hair.

BARGAIN BUY - L'Oreal EverCreme Intense Nourishing Shampoo,
$7 for 8.5 oz.
Available at drugstores
You can’t beat the price of this shampoo for the quality. A very small amount of product produces a rich, easy to spread lather. Make sure to look for the word “Intense” on the label.

Giovanni Colorflage Daily Color Defense Shampoo,
$9 for 8.5 oz.
Available at Vitamin Shoppe and Amazon.com
This shampoo contains “copolymers” which help hair dye last longer.

Free Your Mane Sulfate Free Hydrating Shampoo,
$16 for 10.14 oz.
Available at FreeYourMane.com
Free Your Mane products were designed with Type 4 natural hair in mind. This shampoo lathers quickly and contains a high level of conditioners.

Carol’s Daughter Chocolat Smoothing Shampoo,
$18 for 8.5 oz.Available at Sephora and CarolsDaughter.com
The Chocolat Smoothing Shampoo is the newest and best shampoo in the Carol’s Daughter line. It’s similar to the L’Oreal EverCreme shampoo, but it contains more conditioning ingredients.

CURLS Curliscious Curls Cleansing Cream,
$15 for 8 oz.Available at Target, Sally Beauty, and Curls.biz
This cleansing cream is the best choice for those who prefer to wash daily because it contains very mild cleansers. It’s definitely worth trying if co-washing doesn’t agree with your scalp.

Nicole Harmon is a Cosmetic Chemist and the Founder of HairLiberty.org. She has received rave reviews for her seminars on ethnic hair education and science. She's on a mission to help the Product Junkies of the world save MONEY, sort through marketing HYPE and buy SMARTER!Hair Liberty (def.): The freedom to rock whatever style you want, whenever you want. Curly, straight, natural, relaxed, whatever! Free yourself!

6 Reasons Your Natural Hair is Not Longer

June 16, 2015, 2:00 am

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 kyanamarie is naturally glam!

by Deidre

Diving into the natural hair world can be overwhelming at first. There are various products and tips that everyone claims can grow your hair or defy shrinkage. With all the products and acronyms in the natural hair community, it is easy to become overwhelmed if you are not acclimated to it. People tend to get so caught up in the hype of products or methods to grow their hair that they forget about the small changes that can make a big difference. Do not fret! Below are some small changes that could drastically affect your hair.

You're impatient
In today’s society people are constantly focused on getting results fast, whether it is exercising or achieving some goal. Natural hair is no different. People want their hair to grow to their desired length and they want it immediately. People will quickly purchase a product that claims to grow their hair fast and reduce shrinkage. Growing out your hair is a process that takes patience, learning the needs of your hair, and much trial and error. There will be frustrating days and rewarding days. Finding a regimen that work for you will improve the process of retaining length. It takes time and patience.

Read On!>>>
You're not massaging your scalp
Naturalistas often pay close attention to the ends of their precious tendrils while also neglecting where the hair comes from! A regular scalp massage will stimulate the hair follicles on your head and promote hair growth. The method can be done with just your fingers or by incorporating an essential oil and carrier oil blend to aid in the process. Be careful not to massage too hard or use your nails.

You're not trimming your ends
Naturals can be scared to cut their hair in fear of losing the length they worked hard to achieve. Trimming your ends can rid the damage that could cause breakage or split ends. Compromising your hair’s health for lengthy split ends can be counterproductive. If your ends have numerous knots and tapering, it is time to let them go. Neglecting to trim off the excessive single strands knots and split ends could cause more damage, leaving you to cut off a lot more hair than intended.

You're not doing protein treatments
Because our natural hair can be dry and frizzy, we often feel like the solution to that problem is more moisture. Just like our bodies need a balanced diet so does our hair. Protein is for the hair’s strength in order to withstand tension placed on it. Royal Academy of Chemistry states that the hair is comprised of protein and relies on it for structure and strength. Your hair could use a protein treatment if you are finding small pieces of hair while styling or detangling. These small pieces are different than shed hair because they are much shorter than the length of your hair and do not contain the hair bulb on the end. A protein treatment will restore the lost protein in your hair caused by styling and regular washes.

You don't sleep with a satin bonnet or pillowcase
This may be the most unappealing thing that men and women with natural hair can do to retain moisture. Satin is gentle on the hair and will not withdraw the moisture in your hair. Sleeping on a cotton pillowcase or with a cotton bandana will have the reverse effect. Cotton material will leave your hair dry, soaking up all the moisture in your hair. Sleeping with a satin bonnet or pillowcase is also good for preserving your edges.

You keep touching your hair!
We all know our hair is fabulous and can be incredibly soft, but touching your hair all the time is not good. Some people call it hand in the hair syndrome. This can lead to excessive breakage and can ruin the curl pattern of a style you achieved.

Don’t let all the products and methods consume you. Paying attention to the little things is just as important for successful healthy hair growth.

Have you tried any of these small changes yet?

Tatiana Is Naturally Glam!

June 16, 2015, 7:45 am

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Tell me about yourself!
My name is Tatiana Lugo. I am from the Dominican Republic. I currently live in the state of Delaware.  I’m a mother of three beautiful children, a plus size model and a student pursuing a career in Liberal Arts.

What was your journey like?
Growing up was very difficult for me because I had curly hair.  In the Dominican Republic that was consider “bad hair”.  If your hair was curly you were not able to fit into society, get a good job or even go to an expensive restaurant without people staring at you.  Having curly hair made you feel like you came from another planet. My sisters and I all had to use chemicals on our hair to get rid of our tresses. This was the normal thing to do.  We felt like we had to comply, even thought it meant damaging our hair and scalp, not to mention the nasty smell.

Last year, my employer laid me off of my corporate job.  On many occasions my managers would give me written notice for coming to work with my hair in its natural texture.  I really felt like I was the problem, so I stopped wearing my hair naturally curly.  To fit in and keep my managers happy, I straightened my hair before I went to work every day for more than ten years.  I wanted to cut off my hair and just be bald.  So, once I left that job, to be honest, I felt free.   I could be me and let my hair down naturally, even if that meant having no money. I’m happy, and it feels awesome.

READ MORE>>

How long have you been transitioning?
I have been transitioning since May of 2014, and I tell you it feels like I am born again.  My journey has been interesting; I do a lot of research on natural products, styles and how to live naturally.  I’m a little of a product junky, but I think all naturals divas should be.  I have creams, gels, custards, leave-in conditioners, and DIY products; I love them all. When my curls came to the light I was ecstatic!   YAYYYY I haven’t seeing you guys in more than 25 years! (Yes, I was literally talking to my hair; I still do.)

How did family and friends react to your decision to go natural? What was your response to them? 
My family thought I was going through another one of my life phases, (like when I turned 30).  But once they realized how delighted I was and the real beauty of my naturally curly hair, they were happy for me.

Describe your hair 
My hair is coarse, type 3C, thick and highly porous. It has its own attitude and it reacts better with natural products, especially those from my kitchen.

What’s the craziest thing you’ve ever done to your hair? 
The craziest thing I’ve done to my hair was to bleach my tresses (WHY,WHY, WHY did I do such a thing?)  Next thing you know I went from Rapunzel to a chicken that came out of a hot tub, not nice!!!

What’s your biggest hair related regret?
My biggest regret is that my hair was controlling my self-esteem and my love for myself.  I was letting others define me and judge me for the way my hair looked.  I didn’t like myself, all because of my hair.  I am a beautiful woman and my hair is a part of who I am.  The texture of my hair is not the definition of being incompetent, it is who I am and it makes me unique.

What's your current hair routine?
My current hair routine is:  I co-wash every 3 days, when I come out of the shower I apply a leave-in conditioner, moisturizer and custard to avoid frizz.   My favorite products are KinkyCurly Knot Today leave-in conditioner and custard. Love them.  However, when my pockets are tight, I use my favorite DIY gel, flax seed with aloe vera, and for my leave-in product I use coconut and olive oil.  After all of this, I diffuse my hair to at least 80%.  My hair is very thick and it can take up to 24 hours to dry.

What’s your favorite hairstyle? Where do you get hairstyle inspiration?
My favorite hairstyle is the popular “wash and go” because I admire my curls.  I get all of my inspirations from NaturallyCurly. I like how you can find a solution for your problems and share your thoughts.

Who is your curl crush?
My curls crush is SunKissAlba and you Nikki of course; thank you so much I really admire you.

How do you maintain your hair at night?
To go to sleep I keep my curls in a pineapple bun with a satin wrap (because I don’t have a silk pillow case).  Although, my boyfriend hates this. But it’s my body.  To retained length I use castor oil and coconut oil every night before I put my hair up.  I also get a Deva cut every 6 months, which I love.

What's the best thing about being natural?
The best thing about being a natural diva is that I no longer have to please others by putting nasty chemicals on my hair, and I realize that “ me” is not bad at all.  On the contrary, I am gorgeous. I’m so proud of myself for being brave and loving myself for who I am.  This has been more than a curly hair journey, I feel like it is more of a psychological journey to find “me”.  It took me more than 25 years, but I did it, and it has been one of the greatest accomplishments of my life.

Nafisat is Naturally Glam!

June 16, 2015, 8:09 am

≫ Next: 5 DIY Recipes to Restore Your Edges

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via Global Couture, LLC

Tell me a little about yourself and your hair journey.
My name is Nafisat. I’m a Nigerian Architecture student schooling in Lagos. I love blogging, having fun with friends and meeting new people.

How long have you been natural? Have you always embraced your curls?
I have been natural for two years now.

What motivated you to transition? Were you a transitioner or a Big Chopper& why?
I initially wanted healthy, long, relaxed hair, but after doing the chop and 4 months of transitioning I fell in love with my curls. I have not looked back since. I wanted to transition for 8 months then chop it, but I was too anxious to see what my texture looked like.

Read On!>>>

How would you describe your hair?
I have a kinky- coily head of hair, densely populated with fine and fragile strands. My hair is dark brown in colour and loves organic products like Shea butter and thick oils like castor oil.

What do you love most about your hair?
I love the fact that is so springy and dense, and that it is able turns eyes. Some people have even asked me if it is a wig.

What has been the most memorable part of your journey? Has it been easy or difficult or both?!
The day I big chopped has been one of the most memorable days in my hair journey. And my blow out days when I conduct length checks. It simply blows my mind and makes me so emotional, reminding of how far I have come. It’s really something.


What are (or were) some of your favorite transitioning hairstyles or current dos’?
I didn’t really do much transitioning styles. But I currently love trying medium and chunky twist outs with a bang, I have different variations of bangs I do, I also love doing puffs with pompadour or a simple bun. Sometimes, I like to have this crazy huge bang with the rest of my hair tucked in, I get loads of compliments form these styles.

What have your experiences been as a ‘natural’? Any memorable reactions from family or others?
At first, my mum thought I was going nuts, but now she has come to love my hair. Two of my sisters are a currently natural; one of them is loc’d all thanks to me. I have inspired and encourage quite a number of people. About 6 of my female mates from high school are currently transitioning. Generally, everyone in my family and my close friends are comfortable with my hair.

What is your hair regimen?
My regimen is very simple! I shampoo and deep condition twice a month. I moisturize, seal and twist after washing it. My hair is always in chunky twists on wash days. I wear some form of low manipulation styles throughout the span of two weeks. I also do a water only washing and light detangling between wash days when I have time. I currently use Dudu Osun black soap, Cantu shea butter, Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing moothie, KBB Sweet Ambrosia, Vitale Hair Mayonnaise and Clear Ice styling gel. I also make use of oils and butters like Shea butter, Castor oil, Olive oil and Coconut oil.

What are some of your favorite natural hair websites,YouTuber’s, or blogs?
I love Naturallycurious.com; Blackgirllonghair.com; Thekinkandi.wordpress.com; Naturally curly.com and Naturalhairrules.com

Anything you want the readers to know? Inspirational words?
Natural hair is really fun. If you are still in the TWA stage, enjoy it to the fullest because when your hair gets longer you are going to miss those days when you can just wake up and go. Yes. Detangling can be a pain in the neck.

Where can people find you for more information?
I have a blog about being a young student living in Lagos with natural hair. www.coilyheadofhairwordpress.com
Instgram Account:@ __nafisah
Twitter: @__nafisah
Facebook: Nafisat Olayemi

Global Couture is trying to spread the word about embracing your natural hair. Love your HAIR, if it is wavy, curly, kinky or coily.

See more at http://globalcouture.blogspot.com/ and Follow us on Facebook, Twitter,Instagram.

Are you naturally fierce? Email us to share your hair journey at globalcouture@aol.com

5 DIY Recipes to Restore Your Edges

June 17, 2015, 2:00 am

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by Sedia Ngofa

If any of you are like me your concern always lies with knowing all of the additives in your favorite hair care product, and this is where ethnobotanical hair care comes into play! Ethnobotany is the scientific study of the interrelations between plants and humans on all varying areas. The area in focus here is hair care straight from the earth. No, I am not saying go outside and start rubbing dandelions and mums on your head, but I will be introducing a few recipes that your tresses will adore! For now let’s focus on natural blends of plants and their accompanying essential oils to restore those thinning edges and lacking napes! These five plants that I will introduce can have beneficial cosmetic properties extracted from every part of the plant, and with their origins spanning the Mediterranean region and the Northern Hemisphere, the different preparations or infusions will give your thinning areas and you a whole new meaning of life!

As women we love versatility with our hairstyles, but we never realize how much damage we have done to our beloved manes! Here are some earthly jewels to keep your royal crowns looking their best.

Read On!>>>

 **Sage Strengthening Butter
Sage (Salvia officinalis) is a household herb that is easily accessible at any local grocery store or market. This herb can be used fresh or dried.

Origin: Mediterranean  

Properties: Thymol is the leader of growth promotion for hair, as it increases circulation to scalp and also has astringent properties for cleansing of impurities on skin and scalp.

Directions

1. Heat raw shea butter in a double boiler until it melts
2. Add sage
3. Steep for at maximum of 30 min
4. Strain the mixture using a cheesecloth into a storage container. This will create a creamy, rich, sage infused butter that will not only strengthen hair in the applied areas, but also enable circulation, which is promotes growth.

**Cedar Growth Stimulating Oil
Cedar (Juniperus spp.) is a wood so you want to purchase the essential oil.

Origin: Northern Hemisphere

Properties: The cedrol is what causes this species to work as a therapeutic and also be extremely effective for hair loss.
 
Directions

1. Blend cedar with one of its companions such as rosemary or a carrier oil such as jojoba oil or almond oil to make the ultimate growth stimulating hair oil that can be used as frequently or sparingly as needed.

**Rosemary Scalp Tingling Oil

Rosemary (Rosemarinus officinalis) is another easily accessible herb that is extremely easy to work with.

Origin: Mediterranean

Properties: The pinene in this plant increases sheen and circulation to the scalp to promote growth.
 
Directions

1. Steep a couple of sprigs of rosemary in coconut oil for 30 min
2. Strain with a cheesecloth into a storage container
3. Allow it to cool

**Carrot Hair Mask
Working with carrots (Daucus carota) and other such veggies and fruits will be a tad messier, but still worth it! Adding carrots to oil can create an awesome hair mask! That will not only leave your edges, nape region, and everywhere in between feeling and looking luscious and healthy while still promoting healthy, natural growth.

Origin: Mediterranean

Properties: The beta-carotene found in carrots is extremely good for you in every aspect of health including skin and hair. The oils extracted from the carrot plant also stimulate circulation to promote growth.
 
Directions

1. Juice or blend the carrots you want to use
2. Add the juice to a warm mixture of olive oil or castor oil and pour in a storage container

Peppermint Growth Salve
Peppermint (Mentha piperita) can be prepared fresh or dried. The potency of peppermint is simply amazing.

Origin: Mediterranean

Properties: The limonene and pinene found in this plant is what enables the circulation for growth promotion and also smells lovely.
 
Directions

1. Melt an extremely fatty carrier like coconut oil in a double boiler
2. Steep for 30 min
3. Strain with a cheesecloth into a storage container

Voila, here you have it! Five ethnobotanically inspired recipes that I can promise you will love! Remember add vitamin E oil to all products for longer shelf life! If these preparations are still too much for your busy schedule check out my handmade products highlighting some of these plants only at www.bijouxsbasket.com!

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Sedia Ngofa, a senior at Frostburg State University, discovered her love for nature, traditional plant species utilization, and a specific science coined ethnobotany in the Appalachian Mountains. With the inspiration of her ethnobotanical education on topical and cosmetic preparations she developed her own line of ethnobotanically inspired hair and skin care products, Bijoux's Basket!

Follow Sedia here: Twitter