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30 Days of Giveaways! #AwakenYourCurls

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Hola Chicas!

I'm giving away bundles of hair goodies all month long. Enter every day for your chance to win!

Good luck!

Nik

The Real Cause of Mid-Strand Splits and How to Avoid Them

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@heycurlie


As if split ends were not trouble enough, curly girls also have to deal with another hair damaging issue, one that some never even knew existed. What am I talking about? Mid-shaft splits. Yes, this is another thing to add to your list of things to avoid when caring and treating your natural curls. So what exactly is a mid-shaft split and how can you prevent this from happening? 

A mid-shaft split is hair breakage or weakness occurring anywhere along the hair shaft that is not the ends. Usually found in women with kinky and coily hair due to the increased amounts of twists and bends along the strand, every bend of the hair is a point of weakness for mid-shaft splits to flourish. But, this pesky issue is not limited to one texture. Similar to other common hair problems, how you style, treat, and care for your hair on a daily basis plays a huge part in your healthy hair journey. While split ends eventually occur because it is the oldest part of the hair, mid-shaft splits are a direct result of over manipulation, chemical damage, heat damage, or weak hair. Here are four habits that can lead to mid-shaft splits.

1. Detangling with a brush
Your favorite brush could be your best friend or your worst nightmare. While a lot of women swear by the Denman brush or Tangle Teezer, be sure these tools are not doing more harm than good. Finger detangling is a great way to prevent single strand knots—a known culprit of mid-shaft splits—because it is a direct way for you to observe how your hair responds. You may be tempted to yank the brush through that tough area, however, using your fingers is a gentler way to detangle. If you are detangling and each brush stroke sounds like scratching sandpaper, that is a sign you might want to finger detangle instead. To help with this process opt for conditioners with a ton of slip.

2. High manipulation
Excessive styling is also a cause of mid-shaft splits, especially when styling is conducted on wet hair. Wet hair is weaker and more delicate to handle when styling. Constant twisting, braiding, and rolling can cause unseen breakage to your hair that you might not realize until weeks later. While these styles are gorgeous in their own right, if you find yourself witnessing splits often, opt for more buns or updos to protect your hair without having to refresh the style every day. In addition, the manner in which you grip your hair while styling factors into manipulation. Are you naturally heavy-handed? Do you find yourself pulling and tugging at section just to install a braid?

Contrary to popular belief, natural hair doesn’t mean stronger hair. To avoid mid-shaft splits, ease up on your strands and handle with care.

3. Heat styling
Heat styling is a favorite among many naturally curly women as means of switching up their look, conducting a length check, or getting a trim. We already know heat can cause damage to your curls so it is of no surprise heat may also cause mid-shaft splits. My recommendation is to find a qualified stylist to assist with blowing out your natural curls. Often when styling at home, we misdiagnose how much heat is actually needed to straighten our hair. In addition, a professional stylist will make sure proper heat protectants are used and ensure the hair is hydrated from the inside before applying heat. If you are not sure your stylist uses a heat protectant, bring your own.

4. Skipping the protein treatmentsSince chronic dryness is #1 issue among curlies, some women often forget the importance of protein. While every woman definitely needs a good moisturizing conditioner in their arsenal, having a killer protein conditioner or treatment is equally important. Protein treatments will help to fill in the missing gaps within the cuticle where the hair shaft is weak and will ultimately break. Protein treatments should be applied sporadically to prevent protein sensitivity, which occurs when your hair has a protein overload and results in further damage. Using regular conditioners with hydrolyzed proteins is a great way to start and help prevent mid-shaft splits. Some of my favorite protein conditioners include:
Carol’s Daughter Mirabelle Plum Conditioner
Aubrey Organics GPB Balancing Protein Conditioner
ApHogee 2 Minute Keratin Reconstructor
Briogeo Rosarco Reparative Conditioner


Have you experienced mid-shaft splits? If so, how did you deal with them?

Rocking Short Natural Hair with Thin Edges? Try This Instant Fix!

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by Emilia Obiekea of Adorebotanicals.com

Rocking short hair with thinning or balding edges has been a hindrance for many ladies, especially when going natural. It is always easier to hide them with longer hair styles. This can be caused by tension, health issues or hereditary. Below, I'm sharing tips on stimulating growth in those problem areas and how to camouflage bald spots flawlessly. Be ready to rock your hair as short as you like with confidence!

Continue!>>>
Hair loss can be caused by many things. Check out this article that provides insight to abnormal hair loss and solutions. For increased hair growth, stimulation is vital. The scalp needs to be stimulated. This is easily done by incorporating cardio exercise in your daily regimen to increase blood flow to your scalp and massaging your scalp, a few times a week, with stimulating oils. My favorite  oil is Flourishing Scalp Nectar. A few great ingredients to use in your regimen are Aloe Vera, Peppermint and Stinging Nettle. By reducing wearing styles with a lot of tension and increasing stimulation you should notice increased hair growth within weeks.

Now lets get to hiding thin edges... thinning edges are frustrating. While you are on the grow give this awesome technique a try. Start watching the video from 1:55 to see Mlle.CafeAuLait's method of hiding her bald spot. Tip: Wear disposable gloves.


The product used in the video is Jerome Russell Tempry Hair Color Spray . There are many products out there like this. Give it a try and wear your cute short style or TWA (teeny weeny afro) with pride.
Enjoy!

#SquadGoals- 8 Black Women Make History at the Indiana School of Education

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by Tiffani Greenaway of MyMommyVents.com

Talk about #squadgoals.

Eight black women are receiving their PhDs in Education from Indiana University this May. The history-making "Great Eight" are setting a precedent, as the University has never had such a large group of sistas completing a PhD program at one time.

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While the women did not all start the program together, they were able to find and support one another through their academic career. "We understood very early on that we had a distinction, a commonality, a thread between all of us and so we began to meet as a group," PhD candidate Nadrea Njoku told Indianapolis' FOX 59 News. The women cheered each other on through the struggle of sometimes being the only woman of color in the classroom. "When you're the only or one of a handful of people of color in the classroom particularly when it comes to speaking about issues of race. You can often become the token or spokesperson," PhD candidate Jasmine Haywood said.

While their success is monumental, the Great Eight say this accomplishment isn’t just about them, but “Standing in solidarity with each other as women and as black women but also opening up a space where we’re standing in solidarity with other historically underrepresented marginalized groups in the university,” said PhD candidate Tiffany Kyser.

In a field that sees less than two percent of African-American women, the Great Eight are paving the way for women to come. “If we get more images of showing us in these positive lights, then we can truly say this is nothing special because it happens all the time. So until we get to that point we'll be the great eight and we'll shine that light on it," said PhD candidate Demetrees Hutchins.

The Great Eight will defend their dissertations and cross the stage in ceremonies between May 5th and May 8th on Indiana University’s Bloomington and Indianapolis campuses.

*********************

Tiffani Greenway is the wife and mom behind MyMommyVents, a New York city parenting blog. Her tips have been seen on Yahoo Parenting, Mommy Noire, and Fit Pregnancy. Find more of Tiffani's work at mymommyvents.com.

3 Easy Natural Hairstyles for the Style-Challenged

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@jori.chioma

by Sabrina Perkins of SeriouslyNatural.org

Not everyone is style savvy. I know I'm not. It is no secret that I am the wash and go queen, but that is not just for convenience. I fail at so many styles that I just stay in my lane with the WnG. This does not need to be your fate as there are excellent options and room to grow.

If you’re having a hard time figuring out how to do certain styles, then these three-easy/ less than 10 minutes /get you out the door faster than a lightning bolt options are perfect. I've even got pics and videos for you lovelies!

Continue!>>>


PUFFS
Ain’t nothing wrong with a puff. A puff is so quick and simple to do. It looks elegant and chic at the same time. All you have to do is pull your hair back with a string/headband/shoelace/satin scarf (after moisturizing your hair, of course) and tie it. Then fluff out your puff to your desired preference. That’s it, and you’re out the door looking fabulous.

Here's a video on how to rock a full and fab puff on short hair as many often feel short hair is limited. That couldn't be further from the truth!

How to do a Ponytail Puff on Short Type 4 Natural Hair!!!

BUNS
Buns are such as easy simple style yet it looks classy. Lazy days are bun days. If you’re having a hard time doing a braid-out or twist out just pull your hair up into a puff and tie it. But don’t fluff it out and leave. Roll the part that’s out into a donut bun with your hands or the donut bun that you can buy or make yourself. Secure it place with a scrunchie or bobby pins or the bun itself. And voila, took you less than 5 minutes to look classy.

Buns can be created on short or long hair and here's a video how to work with some Marley hair and have a gorgeous bun on short hair.

HIGH BUN | Top Knot Tutorial on Short Natural Hair


CROWN BRAIDS / GODDESS BRAIDS
Lastly, CROWN BRAIDS will have you slaying for the Goddesses of natural hair. This style may seem difficult or look hard but if you can braid (flat twist or french braid) you can create this style. Now, this needs to be created on medium to long length hair and this is a great protective style too.

Crown braids are an elegant yet sophisticated look. All you have to do it part your hair into two. Braid/Cornrow/Flat twist your hair down around the edges of the both sides. Then bobby pins the extra away to hide them. And there you go, looking sophisticated. You can place a head band if you want and leave out you curly sideburns to look flirty.

Effortless Crown Braid for Natural Hair


Hope this article helped for your lazy days or if you’re trying a style and just absolutely not getting it or if you have hard time doing your natural hair! Don't forget to moisturize your hair before doing these styles to lessen your chance of breakage.

The 3 Must Haves for Every Naturalista

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@efikzara

by Dr. Aziza Glass of www.azizaglass.com

During these past few years, I have identified the staple items that someone who wears there hair in its natural state must have readily available. These are must-haves for all naturalistas and are the foundation of a plethora of hairstyles. Seriously. These tools can be the difference between a bad hair day and an amazingly improvised and respectable hair style.

Continue!>>>
1. Bobby and hair pins – there is absolutely no way you can have a bad hair day when you have a stash of these items. Why? You can literally force your hair to go where you want. The trick with pins is knowing how to use them correctly and having the correct size.

If you have long, thick hair it is to your advantage to get the jumbo size bobby pins. It prevents you from having to use a whole pack to tame a full mane. I even happened across jumbo CURVED bobby pins and literally fell in love. They pin along the curve of your head, making it much easier to actually stay secure after you put them in place. If you use the regular sized bobby pins, I find that they are more secure when you place the wave side toward the scalp. Hair pins are great for tucking in areas to fine tune a look.

2. Elastic headbands – There are so many varying hairstyles that can be accomplished with a good headband (for example, completely pulled back and up for a nice bun, pulled halfway back to get your hair out of your face, or half up with some hair out in front and pinned to the side). I like to get a size that can loop around twice and not be too tight on my scalp when I pull my hair up for a bun.

Make sure the headbands do not have a metal clasp since this can catch on your hair and break it off. Also, I like to stay away from the kind that have the “No Slip” strip on one side. I’m concerned that it will put too much stress on my hair and thin my edges. Yet, it could also be harmless. It’s up to your discretion.

3. Satin scarf – a 100% satin scarf is very easy to come by (real satin is not see through when held up to a light). Just stop by your local thrift store and get one for a couple of bucks.

What does this item do? If you are in a hurry and you are wearing an updo, quickly put your favorite leave-in conditioner or moisturizer on your hair that is pulled back, wrap the scarf around and tie off (place the shiny side directly on your hair). Keep on your hair for about 20 minutes and when you take it off, your hair is smooth and might even have a wavy pattern. It mimics wearing a wave cap. Tip: the longer you leave the scarf on the smooth your hair will appear.

There are many other hair styling tools that are popular among naturalistas, but the items listed above are literally the basics.

-- Dr. G

What are your natural hair must haves?

4 Green Smoothies for Optimal Hair Growth

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@callmedr.b

by Sabrina Perkins of SeriouslyNatural.org

I'm all about green smoothies and how great they are for our bodies, but did you know they have amazing benefits for our hair too? With many of us over 30 and looking for ways to keep our hair healthy, vibrant and moisturized, what we put into our bodies is the best way to get and keep healthy tresses.

Whether your hair goal is length, regrowing edges or staving off grays, there is a green smoothie that can help you with achieve it!  Optimal diet leads to optimal health and optimal health gives you optimal hair growth! Check out the four green smoothies below as they are great for your hair's health.

Continue!>>>


KALE SMOOTHIE
Ingredients
-1-1 1/2 cup almond milk (plain or vanilla)
-1 banana
-1 tablespoon natural peanut butter
-3 ice cubes
-2-3 kale leaves (use 4 or 5 if you’re brave enough)
-blueberries (optional)

Instructions
Add all ingredients to the blender and blend until smooth.

Benefits
The kale is loaded with vitamins A and C which improve the flow of blood to the scalp to help with growth. The protein from the peanut butter and greens is to give nutrients to the building blocks of the hair. Also, the blueberries assist in UV protection, and healing damaged follicles.

CUCUMBER COMBINATION
Ingredients
-3 1/2 cups cucumber, unpeeled, chopped
-1 cup plain non-fat yogurt
-Fresh lemon juice
-Pinch of salt
-Pinch of freshly ground black pepper
-Crushed ice
-Lemon wedges, for garnish

Instructions
Combine all the ingredients except ice and lemon wedges intro a blender and blend smoothly. Then place crushed ice into a glass, pour in smoothie, then garnish with lemon wedges.

Benefits
The cucumber gives the hair shine while Greek yogurt is for protein and our hair needs protein to rebuild damaged hair cuticles. Lastly, the lemon juice treats dandruff and other minor scalp irritations.

SPINACH CALADA
Ingredients
-1 cup baby spinach
-1 Tbsp. chia seeds
-1/2 banana, cut into chunks
-1/2 cup unsweetened vanilla almond milk
-3–5 ice cubes

Instructions
Mix all ingredients in a blender until smooth and frothy.

Benefits
Spinach provides folate and Iron and iron helps red blood cells transport oxygen around the body. Iron deficiency (anemia) can inhibit the transportation of oxygen to cells and can cause hair loss.

SWEET POTATO SMOOTHIE
Ingredients
-1 banana
-1 small sweet potato (cooked)
-2 cups almond milk (or more for desired consistency)
-1 scoop protein powder (optional)
-4 ice cubes

Instructions
Place all the ingredients in the blender and mix until you’ve reached your desired consistency.

Benefits
The sweet potato is filled with A, B6, C, D, and E. It also has iron, zinc, copper, calcium, potassium, niacin and magnesium and great for combating hair loss. Also, the protein powder is for strength for the hair follicles while the almond adds shine to the hair, assisting in treating dandruff and reduces scalp inflammations.

Please note that if you drink a glass once you won’t see a result the same day, you have to be consistently drinking it for optimal results. I've been drinking green smoothies for breakfast for a while and noticing not only great results with my hair but my nails too.

Let me know your recipes and how they work for you.

Meet the Man Behind #SundaySoulDC 's Amazing Viral Haircut

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Hola Chicas!

So last week I happened upon this dope pic in my feed about a group of barbers giving haircuts to people experiencing homelessness. Inspired, I had to share it!


It broke the internet, but unfortunately, this positive image went the way of many other viral photos as it made its rounds, with the dialogue quickly turning negative.  Below, see the real story that was shared by the barber's team and my experience meeting the man behind the haircut, Dexter!

Continue!>>>
"As this photo continues to go viral, we want to take a moment to tell the story and remind everyone that #GivingIsGood this is not a joking matter, this is a life on the road to change. Barber and owner of @millenniumsalon Dexter Fields in DC joined us with @raheem_devaughn @lovelifeDMV as one of 15 barbers and hair stylists who donated their time and set-up a barber shop under an unused pavilion and provided 187 free hair cuts, styles and indeed transformations to those who were experiencing homelessness. After nearly four hours of cutting, Barry took a seat as one of the last clients for the day and received the royal treatment with a haircut to match. He told Dexter and many around that he hasn't felt or looked this good in years. He was transformed and Dexter agreed to give him a haircut anytime. His dignity was restored as were many of the men who were serviced that day. We thank you Dexter and we thank all of the barbers and over 100 volunteers who gave their time and service to those in need and did so with a smile 💚😃#MeetBarryAndDexter #GivingIsGood #Repost #SundaySoulDC#TrueStory #GiveBack" -#Repost @blkcelebgiving 

It wasn't until after I shared to FB, that I realized that Dexter was just outside of D.C.  This was amazingly serendipitous 'cause Dr. Daddy hasn't had any luck with barbers (he so fancy) since we moved here, back in late 2014.  So I tracked Dexter down and he dropped by last night!   We talked ish (of course!), entrepreneurship and spirituality.  He also shared with us the three things he told Barry while grooming him at the Sunday Soul DC Event--

1) You are my brother and I'm going to take good care of you.
2) You matter to a lot of people, all these people are here for that reason.
3) let's keep in touch, whenever you need a cut come and see me!


Barry said the cut helped him to know that he can move forward with his head up, knowing that he could get his life back together, again.  Y'all know my motto-- 'if you're not feeling your hair, you're not feeling yourself', so I most certainly get it and I'm inspired by Dexter and his genuine spirit.

If you're in and around DC and looking to do the big chop (or a second or third one!), or a man in your life needs a new barber experience, check out Millennium Salon in Silver Spring, Maryland!

Later Gators!
Nik

p.s. Oh, and Dr. Daddy got a gourmet grooming, too!  #winning



Melissa Harris-Perry Becomes Editor-At-Large For ELLE.com

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Photo by Charles Ommanney for MSNBC​

by Mike Orie of www.theconscioustip.com

Yesterday, fashion magazine, ELLE announced that Dr. Melissa Harris-Perry would join ELLE.com as editor-at-large. Perry’s work is expected to focus on race, gender, and politics mixed with a little bit of fashion. The news comes less than two months after her departure from the MHP Show on MSNBC. 

Read More>>>
Perry’s weekend morning show was disbanded on February 26, 2016. She shared her thoughts on the unexpected departure in a staff email that was later leaked. "Our show was taken—without comment or discussion or notice—in the midst of an election season ... I will not be used as a tool for [management’s] purposes ... I am not a token, mammy, or little brown bobble head." Perry has established herself as a top-notch journalist who's never been afraid to use her much needed voice. Yesterday, Perry released her debut article, “Where Are The Rest Of Black Feminists in HBO’s ‘Confirmation’?” In one single article, Perry is able to remind us why it is important for media outlets to tell authentic stories that continue to push the envelope through thought provoking journalism. Below she shares her thoughts on why she decided to join ELLE magazine.

"Joining ELLE.com is an opportunity to combine my expertise as a scholar, my commitments as a public intellectual, and my interests as a woman," said Harris-Perry. "Politics, economics, and inequality will be important to the stories we tell, but so too will culture, community, family, and even fashion. I am thrilled to tell my loyal television audience where they can find me and to introduce myself to brand new audiences, all while telling the stories of extraordinary women and girls."

You can read her debut article here.


***********************


Mike "Orie" Mosley is a freelance writer/photographer and cultural advocate from St. Louis. He holds a Bachelor of Arts in Arts, Entertainment & Media Management from Columbia College Chicago and a Masters in Higher Education Administration from LSU. He is also the co-founder of music and culture website www.theconscioustip.com. In his spare time, he's probably listening to hip hop & neo soul music, hitting up brunch or caught up in deep conversations about Black music. You can follow him on Twitter @mike_orie or on Instagram @mikeorie

Going Natural May NOT Be the Key to Helping Your Daughter Embrace Her Natural Hair

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by Kirleen Neely PhD, LPC-S of http://www.richardsoncounseling.com/ 

In recent years natural hair moms have begun to unapologetically enter PTA meetings, playgrounds, and mommy groups rocking their curls. Many of them made a conscious decision to “go natural” as a way to teach their daughters self-acceptance and also help them learn how to navigate their kinky coils.

One significant off spring of their choice to “go natural” is for the first time in decades many little Black girls have grown up knowing that wearing their hair natural is an option. They have gone to weddings where the bride strolls down the aisle with kinky curls, had teachers who proudly rock a fierce twist out, and seen their moms do the big chop. Undoubtedly, in the last decade little girls have been exposed to a higher percentage of diverse hair images than in years prior.

However, despite the revolution many moms are still dealing with their daughters feeling like their natural hair is ugly. Moms continue to field the age old questions about “why can’t my hair be straight and long?”. The questions seem to reach crescendo level as girls enter junior high and the pressure to fit in becomes more important. The perception that natural hair is difficult, complicated, and not attractive is still part of their mindset.

Moms are now asking, “Was going natural to help my daughter embrace her hair a waste of time?” Working as a psychotherapist for fifteen plus years and being the author of a natural hair children’s book has given me the opportunity to hear their frustration and disappointment firsthand.

The seemingly obvious reason that “going natural” didn’t have the impact that moms thought it would is because for every diverse beauty image a child sees, they have probably seen thousands more that are monolithic and Eurocentric in appearance. Exposure to diverse images is very important component, but may not be enough.

In my opinion one missing factor is the lack of connection between the positive images of natural hair and the historical message. Mom’s expose their girls to positive natural hair images and expect them to make the connection of self-acceptance solely based on the image. Kids are intelligent and may need to understand the WHY behind the image.

One of the major reasons the message does not get discussed is the complicated nature of the message. After all, how do you explain to a child the painful truth behind today’s dominate beauty standard for Black hair and it’s close ties to slavery and the ugly separation of Black people based on hair texture and skin color.

I do believe there is a child friendly, age appropriate, way to discuss these difficult subjects. I further think that negating the rich complicated history from the narrative does our children a disservice. Of course, what you tell a five year old will be different than what you tell a 15 year old, but the inclusion of the WHY behind the message is important. I am hopeful that once girls understand the history behind positive natural hair images they will be more invested in keeping the natural hair movement alive.

*************************************



Dr. Neely is a licensed professional counselor and has worked in the mental health field for over twenty years. She holds a PhD in counselor education and supervision from St. Mary’s University, in San Antonio, Texas. She has served as the chief executive officer of Richardson Counseling Services since 2001. The center provides counseling services with a focus on self-esteem empowerment. In 2010 Dr. Neely conducted an extensive qualitative research study exploring how dominate beauty standards impact African American women’s perceptions about their hair and hair loss. The study’s findings lead her to publish a natural hair children’s book titled “Straight Talk”. The book empowers children to love their natural hair and gives them a natural hair history lesson at the same time. Dr. Neely frequently appears as a guest expert on radio, television, and at conferences. Some of her recent appearance include, The National Black Child Development Conference, Sirius XM’s The Maggie Linton show, and Natural Hair Texas conference. Dr. Neely is supported by her husband and two beautiful daughters. She can be contacted at www.richardsoncounseling.com

Try This Faux Locs Short Cut for a Quick, 2 Hour Install!

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IG @taasharenee

by Ariane of BlackNaps.org

Faux locs are a beautiful protective style that give you a taste of what the loc life is like. However, they take ages to do! Fortunately, there is a short cut.

Continue!>>>
Usually to install faux locs you have to first put your hair in individual braid extensions, then you wrap braiding hair around the braid to give it the appearance of a loc. We all know that braid extensions can take upwards of 8 hours to achieve and then you have to add in an additional step? Ain’t Nobody Got Time For That!

If you aren’t up for your faux locs style taking all day to do you can get the same look by doing the crochet method with hair that is already formed to look like locs. At most this should take you 3 hours to complete and depending on how familiar you are with the crochet method, you just may be able to do it in 2 hours. That’s nearly 70% less time you have to spend on your hair.

Here’s a look at the process:


Using the Janet Collection Faux Loc hair, you dramatically reduce your time and it looks nearly identical to faux locs done the super long way! I don’t know about you but seems like a way more efficient way of getting this beautiful style!

Crochet braids are overall just a better option when it comes to protective styling with weaves in my opinion. They are more lightweight, don’t take as long too do or remove, they never itch my scalp even as close to as badly as traditional braid extensions, put less tension on your scalp and depending on the hair you go with they last a long time.

Your Moisturizer Needs These 4 Ingredients to be Effective

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by Susan Walker ofEarthtones Naturals

If someone were to ask me what is the number one challenge with natural hair my answer would be maintaining appropriate moisture levels. This topic has been covered extensively but dry hair is the the number one complaint of many natural women I hear from and it warrants further discussion.

There has been a lot of confusion about what moisture actually is, how to moisturize hair and what ingredients should be included in an effective moisturizer. Products containing emollients such as mineral oil and petroleum, natural oils and butters as well as silicones have been marketed as moisturizers. Women have used these products with no relief to their dry hair. Brittleness has continued with ensuing breakage. Because of this we need to take a deeper look into this concept of moisturizing our hair, dissect the formulas and really understand what makes a product an effective moisturizer.

What is Moisture?
Moisture is a property of water and this element makes the best moisturizer. Hydration contributes to the pliability and elasticity of the hair. Because water can quickly enter and exit the hair it’s difficult for it to remain moisturized for long periods of time with just water. Factor in conditions such as high porosity and chemical damage and keeping the hair hydrated seems as though it’s a losing battle. This is where an effective moisturizer is crucial.

Read On>>>
Water
A good moisturizer will hydrate and nourish the hair deeply within the hair shaft. Water-based products are necessary. Anything anhydrous or without water such as a 100% oil-based product will not be an effective moisturizer. This is because oils and waxes DO NOT moisturize. Oils replace lost lipids from the hair, nourish it and can create a barrier to seal in moisture but they do not moisturize. Therefore using an oil-based product with the hopes of moisturizing the hair will be an exercise in futility and will likely result in dry hair especially if there is no moisture in the hair shaft. Therefore a proper moisturizing product will contain humectants and emollients to draw water into the hair and occlusives to keep it there.

Humectants
I absolutely love humectants. I think that if they are used correctly, they can effectively improve moisture levels in the hair for days before remoisturizing is necessary. When it comes to skin, the essential components to skin moisturization are humectants, emolliency and occlusiveness. If we extrapolate these principles to hair care we find the same thing. Exactly what is a humectant? Humectants attract water from the surroundings by absorption into the hair, and adsorption onto the hair, at defined conditions, which include temperature and humidity.

Glycerin is probably one of the most popular and well-known humectants because it’s very effective and relatively inexpensive. It can absorb its own weight in water over 3 days. However, many naturals avoid products with glycerin because it can leave their hair feeling dry or looking frizzy. As a result, many natural hair care companies are manufacturing products that are “glycerin free”. I like to put things in context when it comes to the use of specific ingredients for hair care, their incorporation into a product and the result on the hair. To say that glycerin makes the hair hard or results in frizziness is relative depending on many things including the humidity, the product formulation and other ingredients in the product.

Other Humectants
While glycerin is the most well known humectant there are several others. This is where I take issue with some companies that market products as “glycerin free” because they will leave out the glycerin, but often add other humectants. These include:

  • agave nectar
  • honey
  • sodium PCA
  • sodium lactate
  • propylene glycol
  • urea
  • honeyquat
  • sorbitol
  • panthenol 
Just to name a few. Certain humectants have more moisture binding capability than others and each humectant is unique bringing other properties to a formulation.

In high humidity frizz can ensue because moisture is taken from the environment into hair resulting in swelling of the hair shaft, raising of the cuticle and resulting poofiness. If hair is dry, damaged and overly porous it can be a hot mess!

Humectants exacerbate this condition and some, such as glycerin, can become sticky once saturated with water. So in this type of weather [summer]or climates in which high humidity is characteristic, using products with high amounts of humectants can have a negative effect on the hair. This I understand and I’ve experienced the “cotton candy hair” during high humidity days this summer. However the other side of this and one of the arguments against using glycerin (and by extension it should apply to other humectants as well, no?) is this notion of it drawing water from the cortex of the hair in low humidity conditions such as dry, cold weather. Relevant research I found pertains specifically to the skin. Can this be applied to hair? Perhaps. Humectants are able to attract water from the atmosphere (if the atmospheric humidity is greater than 80%) and from the dermis. Even though they may draw water from the environment to help hydrate the skin, in low humidity conditions, they may take water from the deeper epidermis and dermis, resulting in increased skin dryness. For this reason, they work better with occlusive ingredients.

Sealants
What does this mean for hair care? If the same principles apply then in lower humidity conditions humectants may contribute to hair dryness if water is lost from the hair. Therefore they should be paired with occlusive agents, better known as SEALANTS. Sealants will work along with humectants to minimize the evaporation of water and subsequent dryness. This doesn’t just apply to glycerin but ANY humectant. What are good sealants? Natural sealants include butters such as shea butter and cocoa butter and waxes like beeswax and carnauba wax. Mineral oil and dimethicone are two other sealants that are very effective at minimizing water loss once used appropriately.

Emollients
Emollients are lubricating and are film-forming. They help smooth and seal the hair and can be oils, butters, hydrolyzed proteins, polymers, and cationic quaternary compounds.

To summarize, an effective moisturizer will contain:
1. Water
2. Humectants
3. Emollients
4. Occlusives or Sealants

When it comes to moisturizing hair you’ll definitely need to find which product works for you. Navigating through the abundance of products seems daunting but understanding the ingredient list can help you narrow down your choices.

In order to evaluate whether a moisturizer will be good for your hair or not you’ll need to know a few things:
1. Your hair texture (fine, medium, thick)
2. Is the product a light lotion or thicker cream?
3. Is there water in the product to hydrate the hair?
4. Are there humectants in the product? Where are they in the ingredient list?
5. Are there any emollients
6. Are there any occlusive agents (aka sealants) in the product to minimize water loss to the environment?

Have you found an effective moisture? What are the ingredients? 

This article was originally published in August 2008 and has been updated for grammar and clarity.

Sky High.

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Hola Chicas!

Woke up to a beautiful day and this extra dope bang-age situation. 

Found my only not-yet-streteched-out beanie. 

Copped a new book from one of my favorite authors (yayyyyyy!).

Dr. Daddy is with the kiddo. They're fed.  House clean.

I've got the roof to myself and a bottle of wine on chill.

So yeah, *singing Nina* "...it's a new dawn, it's a new day, it's a new life for me, and I'm feelin' good." 

Before I head out tho, I wanted to set these pics right here.  

Cheers, 
Nik



 


p.s. I achieved these bouncy bangs using HUGE flexi rods (the blue ones 1 1/4 inch) and a little Jane Carter Leave-in and Twist Out foam on dry hair.  I rolled the entire front section on 3 rollers and put the rest in a low bun so the beanie would act right.  Super chic and easy look when you're running short on time.  

6 Natural Hair Stereotypes I Get All the Time

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by Dr. Aziza Glass of Azizaglass.com

Since I became natural and started rocking my fro, I have observed some interesting changes in my interactions with people and their perception of me. Below is a list of just a few:

Continue!>>>
When I go to a performance poetry event, all of a sudden I’m a poet that should perform at tonight’s open mic.
o Reality: I’m not a poet, but I enjoy supporting the arts and I believe performance poetry is a powerful medium to express one’s self.

I smoke weed and use rock deodorant.
o Reality: I don’t partake in either, but I’m not judging that you do.

I automatically want to be a part of a very deep discussion about the state of hip hop or politics…or what is the cause of problems with society today.
o Reality: Although I do like a good, thought-provoking discussion, right now I just want a latte.

I’m a free spirit and am not confined to society’s rules
o Reality: Yeah…I’m not DTF and whatever kind of sexual prowess I might have is going to remain a curious thought for you.

I believe people who wear weave are victims of self-hate
o Reality: Nope. The weave vs natural hair war is idiotic to me. How you want to wear your hair is a personal choice. And I could argue that wearing a weave is a protective style for natural hair. So everyone is a part of a big happy extended family.

I am a Queen and prefer to be addressed as such.
o Reality: You are absolutely correct.

What has been your experience?

*********************************************
In 2008, Dr. Aziza Glass transitioned from relaxed to natural hair and began the journey of self-discovery. Literally. Since then, she has become a fierce naturalista and proud HBCU (PVAMU) and Ivy League (Cornell) alumna. Dr. G is currently a veterinarian, entrepreneur, and TV personality.

Try These Tips for Roller Set Perfection

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IG @naturallytemi


A roller set on natural hair is a simple (but often times complicated) style.

With a roller set, you can have sleek, stretched curls without direct heat. This is especially great for those that want to achieve a stretched curly style and without putting their hair at risk for heat damage. With these tips and tricks, I’m sure you can get your best roller set.

1. Deep condition
The state of you hair’s health and how well you care for it prior to the style means a lot. An important step prior to doing your roller set is making sure that your hair is properly conditioned with a deep conditioner or protein treatment. These treatments not only repair your hair from the previous week’s manipulation and style but also prepares your hair for the roller style. So make sure your hair is conditioned and prepared.

2. Apply a heat protectant (as your leave-in)
Although you are not putting direct heat on your hair from a straighter, you are using heat from a hooded dryer. For a roller set to be completely dry, it’s essential to spend about 30-120 minutes underneath the dryer. A great spray heat protectant leave–in for roller set is ApHogee Keratin and Green Tea Restructurizer. This product includes keratin, a common ingredient featured in heat protectants that helps to build a barrier and combat damage from heat styling.

3. Use a light moisturizing styling product
For a stretched style like a roller set, you want your hair to have volume, movement and not feel weighed down with product. It’s best to use a light moisturizer or hair serum. Stay away from styling products that include petroleum and butters that will be too heavy.

4. Perform a roller set on damp/dry hair
Doing a roller set on wet hair will be a challenge in itself. The slippery hair will make it much more difficult to wrap around the roller, leaving odd strands of hair from being curled. For an easy and smoother application, always roll your hair when it’s damp or dry. This will give your hair a better grip and you’ll spend less time underneath the dryer.

5. Divide your hair into small sections
The less hair for each roller, the better results you will get. Too much hair in each section will make it much harder to curl around the roller and take more time to dry. So divide your hair in small sections throughout your hair.

6. Use different size rollers
This is one of the tips I learned eventually. Using the same size rollers throughout your entire head will create the same curls. Using different size rollers will actually create fullness and add extra volume to your hair.

10 Holy Grail Natural Products Under $10

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IG @_journeytowaistlength

by Jascmeen Bush of Jascmeen.com

A common misconception is that Naturals spend a lot of money on products. Some of us do, there’s no denying that, but on the flip side we have plenty of amazing and affordable options. Take notes newbies, stock up on these cheap grails before going for a splurge.

Continue!>>>

1. Dark and Lovely Au Naturale Anti Shrinkage a la Créme, $9.99
A lot of products promise elongation, but this one actually comes through. If you love it, and you probably will, try the entire line.

2.Cantu Leave-in Conditioning Repair Cream, $5.79
This heavy leave-in is the stuff of dreams. It has plenty of slip, a heavenly scent, and with this price tag you can feel free to get heavy handed.

3. Shea Moisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen, Grow, and Repair Shampoo, $9.99
Shampooing often is not exactly our hair’s best friend, but when the time comes to lather up, why not reach for something that has all the benefits of our beloved JBCO?

4. Dr Miracle’s Deep Conditioning Packet, $1.69
Maybe it’s the whole tingling effect, but you can really feel this deep conditioner doing it’s thing. You can leave it on for hours if that’s your preference, but you only need about 20 minutes to get all the effects.

5. Dr. Bronner’s Peppermint Pure Castile Liquid Soap, $5.69
Aside from the fact that this multi-use product smells like Christmas, it’s an extremely effective clarifying shampoo. You get even more for your money since it can be diluted and used on your face, body, laundry, and even around the house.

6. OGX Nourishing Coconut Milk Conditioner, $7.99
Popping curls depend wholly on hydration. OGX has earned a lot of well-deserved buzz in the natural hair community. Do yourself a favor and give this sulfate-free conditioner a try.

7. ORS Olive Oil Wrap Set Mousse, $6.74
For longer lasting rod sets, try this foam. A word of caution, it can be drying so make sure your hair is properly moisturized before reaching for this or any foam.

8. ECO Styler Olive Oil Styling Gel, $5.69
Whether you choose to use ECO as your edge control or part of your LOC, for the price you get for such a huge tub, this grail is more than deserving of a five dollar bill.

9. Denman Brush, $7.50
Until you master finger combing, stick to the Denman brush or a wide tooth comb for detangling and distributing product.

10. Cantu Coconut Curling Cream, $6.19
Spray a little water on dry hair, rake this cream through your hair with your fingers, then sit back and watch those curls spring back to life.

Have you tried any of them? All of them? Comment with your grails, don’t keep them all to yourself :)

DIY Hot Oil Treatment for Dry, Brittle Natural Hair

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by Tina Munzu 

Hot oil treatments are my go-to for repairing dry brittle hair. They strengthen and condition the hair, give shine and help fight off dandruff. Best of all, they can be easily customized to meet your needs. I do a hot oil treatment monthly but I also love to treat my hair to one after my hair has been flat ironed or been in a long term protective style. Watch this quick and simple video to discover how you can start reaping the benefits of hot oil treatments today!

Continue!>>>

How To Find The Perfect Outfit On A $30 Budget

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Photo by Larry Everage for CMH Style​

by Mike Orie of www.theconscioustip.com

If you’re anything like me, you’ve probably already settled into your go-to shopping habits and/or stores. Or, if you’re exactly like me, you might loathe shopping all together. But regardless of where you fall on the spectrum, somebody has to do it, and do it well. While some cringe at the thought of overcrowded dressing rooms and trying on the same outfit in multiple colors. Others have mastered a specific skillset that allows them to shop in confidence. This skill of confidence can be established through creativity and attention to detail. Style consultant Christine M. Hamilton has over the past several years mastered the art of shopping on a budget. We reached out to her to show us how to most effectively pick the perfect outfit with little to no money. Below, she’s hand selected a custom outfit for the ladies, on a $30 budget. After seeing the cost breakdown, you’ll probably wonder how she did it.

Read More>>>
Top: Goodwill $2, Sunglasses: $5, Necklace: H&M (via Buffalo Exchange) $8, Pants: Forever XXI (via Buffalo Exchange) $5, Shoes: Top Shop (via Buffalo Exchange) $10.

Photo by Larry Everage for CMH Style

Christine M. Hamilton, a New Orleans transplant, by way of Baton Rouge launched CMHstyle her umbrella brand for all things fashion related. The brand encompasses style consulting, personal shopping and a personal style blog. Her website, CMHStyle.com is a compilation of personal style, visual merchandising and her ever growing styling portfolio. But while New Orleans is known for many things, fashion probably isn't one that comes to mind. Christine has instead embraced the southern culture, making it her own. “The lifestyle in The South is very "laissez faire"; laid back and casual. Down here it's wet and warm, and not just in terms of the climate. The people here are open-armed, always down for a celebration, and (in New Orleans specifically) the culture runs deep. I would say that my style reflects a bit of that.” Unlike cultural hubs DC, New York and Chicago, living in the Deep South might have its perks. A one size fits all wardrobe. “Whether it is work, happy hour, or a night out on the town, I can pretty much wear one look for all,” she says. Christine has embraced a casual, yet stylish look that can be enhanced or dressed down with a simple swap of shoes or accessories. She does it effortlessly and with grace.

And while I, myself have attempted and failed many times at thrifting, Christine has has developed a strategy that has made her a lot more successful. I ask her how she’s been able to find success and if there’s a specific strategy she keeps in mind for thrifting. “Don't go in looking for anything specific. It sounds crazy, but I've found some of my best items on a whim.” However, it turns out that we’re both asking the same questions when we’re shopping. Albeit, hers at a place a lot more challenging. “Once I spot something, I instantly ask myself "How many ways can I wear this?" and "Is this a staple piece or just trendy?” I only move to the next step of trying it on if I can answer those questions correctly.” The major difference in this scenario is that I'm usually applying these questions to a shirt that could easily surpass this $30 budget.

Photo by Larry Everage for CMH Style

But what made it’s way into Christine’s life as a gift at a young age is still somewhat of a daunting experience for many. Almost like a spider. At some point you have to kill it, or except that it’s presence might linger forever. Shopping can sometimes feel that way. And this is where CMH style comes in. “My job is to alleviate that pressure and make it more of a therapeutic experience. Many of my clients have come to me during transitional stages in their lives (new jobs, divorce, recent weight loss, etc.) so to be able to coach them through, my passion for style and fashion is an honor and privilege.” So whether you’re shopping for a first date, professional work attire or completely reinventing yourself, she’s got you. Regardless of where you live in the world, Christine’s style consultant services allows her to guide you from anywhere. Her $30 hand selected outfit will most likely leave you feeling one way. A newfound confidence to reinvent yourself through style.​

You can keep up with Christine’s visual style portfolio via her Instagram here.

You can also check out her website and contact her directly here.



***********************

Mike "Orie" Mosley is a freelance writer/photographer and cultural advocate from St. Louis. He holds a Bachelor of Arts in Arts, Entertainment & Media Management from Columbia College Chicago and a Masters in Higher Education Administration from LSU. He is also the co-founder of music and culture website www.theconscioustip.com. In his spare time, he's probably listening to hip hop & neo soul music, hitting up brunch or caught up in deep conversations about Black music. You can follow him on Twitter @mike_orie or on Instagram @mikeorie

How to Flat Twist Without Actually Flat Twisting

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DiscoveringNatural has put together a video for all of you who want to flat twist but can't get the hang of it. This "cheat" is easy to follow and will give you flat twist results without actually flat twisting. The key to this style is to grab big sections. The bigger the sections the bigger the flat twists will appear. This method is great because it's easier on the scalp, which is especially good for children with tender scalps, but can also be used on adults!

Follow these steps: 

  1. Take the section you want to flat twist. 
  2. Divide it into smaller sections. 
  3. Then divide each smaller section into two. 
  4. Take the two strands and wrap it around like a twist. 
  5. Grab the bottom section and the top of the next section. 
  6. Holding it firm, do a twist against that section and the new section. 
  7. Continue all the way down and secure it with pins or hair ties.



The following post was originally published on August 2014 but has been updated for grammar and clarity.

Plastic vs. Metal Afro Pik?

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Afro piks are a staple in the black hair community, and we’re not just talking about your dad’s legendary collection from his high school days. Long before popular piks had a black fist, they were used in ancient pre-dynastic Egypt over 6,000 years ago.

Since then, piks have changed very little. There’s still no better tool for adding volume to kinky hair but it’s important to know your way around this little game changer. The wrong tool or technique can cause serious breakage and possibly abrasions on your scalp.
Our fragile curls only deserve the best.

Continue!>>>
PLASTIC PIKS ARE GENTLER. For fine hair, these are the clear winner. Looser curl patterns may even reach for one to distribute product, plastic piks are great at that. If you like to rock a completely picked out ‘fro, you should certainly use a plastic pik for this as well. Although they may be far more gentle and versatile than their metal counterparts, don’t count them out just yet.

METAL PIKS MAY LOOK LIKE A PATH TO CERTAIN BREAKAGE, but when used properly they are an absolute godsend, especially for thicker hair and tight curl patterns. To get more volume in your twist-out or fake a more tapered cut, simply part your hair and slide in a metal pik. After a few short strokes (into your roots only), move on to the next section. Use care and control to avoid scratching your scalp. For added protection, try dipping your Afro pik into a little coconut oil.
What does your pik collection look like?

Metal? Plastic? Long spikes or short? Reach for your plastic Afro pik to pick out ends, distribute product, or volumize loose curls; but 4b-4c hair types may want to leave the serious root lifting to a metal pik. Always try to get as much volume as you can with your fingers first before whipping out any comb, brush, or pik.

Share your tips and tricks in the comments below.
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