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We Stay Celebrating.

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We stay celebrating her life-- yesterday after going to Gma's church together, the fam went to 'the boat' for brunch. #GmaWouldBeProud

Natural Hairstyles: How to Get a Big, Bouncy Braid-Out

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On a quest to keep her type 4 coils and curls looking amazing and her roots tangle free, Zara, discovered her favorite hairstyle-- the Big, Bouncy, Braid-Out.  It's her favorite style and she'd like to share it with you!

Continue!>>>

Brother Where Art Thou?: Leaving Black Men Out of the Black Hair Revolution

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I'm married to a man who's absolutely obsessed with sports. We rarely watch TV together because he is content to watch ESPN around the clock. Sunday morning was one of those rare times we were watching TV together. He was tuned into some show recapping the Bengals vs Steelers playoff game. I was barely watching or listening when I heard, "Assistant Coach Mike Munchak pulled Reggie Nelson's hair!"


I snatched the remote to rewind because I was sure I hadn't heard what I thought I heard. I watched this white man -- an assistant coach -- grab the locs of a black player. I had to replay the clip four times. That scene was a virtual commercial for white supremacy. The symbolism, dehumanization and racist arrogance of the incident made me realize that black men are often overlooked in conversations about discrimination against black hair.

Read On!>>>
Though the stigma attached to natural black hair and hairstyles is still a very real problem for black women, our widespread unabashed embrace of our hair has forced some acceptance. That's not to say that we aren't still being targeted for choosing to wear our hair in its natural state, but that we are on our "deal with it" steez and that is making people realize their disdain for our twistouts, crochets, afros and braids is a problem of their colonized minds not ours. That revolution in our thinking and attitudes toward our natural hair has quite naturally (pun intended) excluded black men. We've forgotten that their locs, cornrows and high fades are ridiculed and stereotyped as much as ours.

I remember receiving an employee handbook that discussed appearance. It noted that men were not to have their hair "longer than four inches" and that it must be "neatly groomed." One of my coworkers, a black man, and I were talking once and he mentioned he wanted to grow out his hair. I asked why he didn't and he gave me the standard black people "stop playing" look, going on to say, "You already know these white folks ain't having it." I was in Human Resources at the time and pointed out the vague limitations on men's hair outlined in the employee handbook. He replied, "You know what they mean though." I dropped it because I could see he wasn't ready to or interested in risking the fight both he and I knew would result from four inches of hair on the head of a black man employed in the IT department of a law firm.

If he were so inclined though, that would've been a battle I would have loved to fight with him. It's not uncommon for non-black men in corporate America to have four inches of hair on their head. Their hair is perfectly fine for meetings, presentations and representing the company. Black hair typically grows out and up though. So four inches of hair growing from a black man's hair won't just hang naturally. That means those four inches have to be groomed into an Afro, fashioned into locs or individual braids, or cornrowed.

I adore longer hair on black men be it three-inch fades, flowing locs or cornrows. It's not so much the aesthetic qualities of these styles that I like, but the middle finger to assimilation they represent. It's black men refusing to fit into the "non-threatening" image of black man society has created.

And predictably, just as with the backlash against black women, their is backlash against black men who don't keep low Caesers. I've read too many admonishments to black men about how "dreadlocks are not professional." Somehow, neatly maintained locs lying on his back prevents a black man from performing his job well. I've seen too many people associate cornrows with criminality, as if the cross stitch pattern somehow turns black men and boys from model citizens to criminals.

Earlier this year, there was a video of a black man in Baltimore during the riots being taken down by his hair and pepper sprayed. The same feeling of unbridled rage welled up in me seeing a professional football coach grab a black man's hair. Whenever I've witnessed a man pull the hair of a woman, it was a pathetic attempt to prove his manhood. I imagine it's the same with yanking a black man's hair. It's an attempt to emasculate him, reminding him that no matter his refusal to fit into the narrow confines of respectability, he'll always be powerless over his own body. It attacks an instrument of revolution: black non-conforming hair.

I remember the first time I took out braids over the weekend and didn't have time to get them redone. Sunday night, I stood in my bathroom mirror off and on for hours trying to convince myself to wear an afro puff into the office. Eventually, I decided to call out the next day and go get my hair braided. I've since overcome my anxiety about displaying my natural hair in the office, thanks largely in part to other black women who've shown me that our hair is not a problem.

I wonder if there are black men going through the same. I wonder if they wrestle with the decision to rage against respectability and grow out their hair to achieve the dopest locs or nicest cornrows. They need a revolution too, even if just one of the mind. They need to start loving their hair the way black women have learned to love ours.

A little about me:
I'm La Sha, a writer and blogger committed to using my writing to deconstruct oppressive ideologies and systems, particularly misogynoir, racism, patriarchy and elitism. My work has been featured on Blavity, Atlanta Black Star, Clutch Mag and For Harriet, and I am the founder of The Kinfolk Kollective blog.

FB: The Kinfolk Kollective Twitter: @knflkkollective IG: kinfolkkollective Website: www.kinfolkkollective.com

Natural Hair Growth Products and Ingredients to Look For

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by Sabrina Perkins of SeriouslyNatural.org

As the New Year rolls in big, many naturals and curly women are focusing on hair health...but let’s get real. Hair growth is ALWAYS on the list of things we want too. Now, healthy hair most often reigns supreme but scores of women, myself included, wants to get maximum hair growth in a year.


Nothing wrong with that and in fact, many products or ingredients that can give you optimal hair growth that also possess benefits like anti-fungal, anti-bacterial properties that will aid scalp ailments or other hair problems.

Read On!>>>
Hair growth is constant despite what some may think. When they see their hair not growing past a certain length, they are getting hair growth confused with length retention.  Hair on the scalp grows about .3 to .4 mm/day or about 6 inches per year and there are three stages of growth and shedding: anagen, catagen, and telogen.


Hair retention is retaining the hair instead of losing it through breakage. Hair is always growing in one of the three phases mentioned above but you may not be seeing it if your hair is breaking off at a certain point.  So, working only on hair growth is not the best way to have long hair. Excellent hair practices, eating right, exercising, drinking plenty of water, and protecting your strands will do that!

Biotin
Biotin or vitamin B7 is used by the body to metabolize carbohydrates, fats, and amino acids. It is a highly popular vitamin for hair, skin and nails and can be taken as a supplement alone, or in a multi-vitamin most often labeled as a hair, skin, or nail vitamin.

According to the Mayo Clinic, there are not recorded side effects reported for biotin in amounts up to 10 milligrams a day but always consult with a medical professional to determine if this is a vitamin you need or can take and the dosage.  Some people complain of skin breakouts but usually upping your water intake with combat that and I have personally tried it and it worked.


Caffeine
According to MNT, caffeine is "a bitter, white crystalline xanthine alkaloid - a term used for substances produced as end products of nitrogen metabolism in some plants." This substance stimulates our Central Nervous System and can be found in over 60 plants. Now, the FDA DOES classify caffeine as a drug and a food additive but did you know it also encourages hair growth?

Caffeine can interact with the hair follicles, and even regulate hair growth so it can promote it and thwart hair loss. You can just keep drinking your morning cup of Joe to gain that benefit or you can take it a step further (like I do) and enlist in a coffee rinse from time to time.

Just brew a strong coffee or espresso and allow to cool. Pour over your head after you wash and condition.  Leave in for 20 minutes and then rinse out. I just pour it over my head after I condition, add my deep conditioner, and let the mixture set under my thermal cap for 30 minutes before rinsing out. I LOVE the smell of the coffee mixed with my deep conditioner.


Garlic Oil
Garlic oil contains essential elements including sulfur, copper, vitamin C, selenium, and minerals which are highly beneficial for hair growth. Garlic has antimicrobial, anti-fungal, and antibiotic properties and it is said to stimulate blood flow to the scalp which in turn encourages hair growth.

You can add it to your shampoo or conditioner, use it in a scalp massage with another oil, or use it as a hair massage all by itself. I am unaware of the smell factor with using the oil but it might be better to try prior to wash day or when you have no plans for that day.


Hair Vitamins (Hairfinity & The Mane Choice)
Hair vitamins are nothing new but with the natural hair movement, they have become a permanent fixture in healthy hair care for quite a few. There are plenty of hair vitamins on the shelves on or online but a few stand out as some of the favorites like Hairfinity and The Mane Choice.

I have personally tired Hairfinity and it does work but several naturals have praised The Mane Choice touting real hair and nail growth. I experienced both as well on Hairfinity as while the biggest complaint seems to be breakouts, upping your water intake seems to fix that problem.

Now, mind you, the hair on your head is not the only hair that will grow and many have said they noticed growth in their eyebrows and even chin and upper lip. All I can say is make those appointments for waxing and keep it moving.

(Essential) Mustard Oil
This very popular oil on the Indian Subcontinent and is either extracted by cold compression of mustard seeds or from steam distillation of mustard seeds soaked in water. The essential oil has the purpose of massage, and will also stimulates circulation and best if not consumed orally.

Mustard oil has anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties but it is becoming known as a hair revitalizer. With the oleic and Linoleic fatty acids, it has stimulating effects that increase blood circulation to the scalp which nourishes the hair follicles and encourages hair growth.

Rogaine for women
Rogaine for women is a topical hair regrowth treatment for hereditary female pattern hair loss or thinning. It prevents further hair loss and is clinically proven to regrow hair.  The active ingredient is minoxidil, which is a vasodilator that used to be prescribed for high blood pressure but is now thought to increase the size of inactive hair follicles. This allows them to resume production of thicker, longer strands of hair.

Reviewers are saying it works but know this is for women with hereditary pattern hair loss or thinning so if your hair loss or thinning is from chemicals, over-manipulation of styling products or heat, then this is not the product for you.

OK, I threw a lot of information at you but plenty of women have tried and found these ingredients and hair products to aid in optimal hair growth. Remember that no product or ingredient can beat eating right, drinking plenty of water, protecting your hair and having a solid hair care routine.


Which ingredients have you had success with?


CN Says:
Biotin, MSM and healthy fats have always been my go-to.  I'm also big into gut health (to set the foundation for everything else) and therefore recommend a probiotic.  Finally, all the water and cardio.  The only juice I drink is pure cranberry (which is a great source of vitamin c, also a good hair growth vitamin).  These things keep me on my healthy hair growth game :) 

The Best Dietary Supplement for Thicker Natural Hair

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 re-post for awesomeness!


Hola Chicas!

I field hella emails about hair vitamins:  

Nik, have you tried Viviscal?
What about Hairfinity?
Will I see faster growth? 
How long will it take to see results?" 

I've addressed the subject of supplements before, and I'm pretty sure everyone knows what I'm gonna say next--

There are no quick fixes, magic potions or lotions, just patience, consistency and a healthy lifestyle.  

But wait, there's more!  And there is (at least) one supplement I honestly believe contributes to my luxuriousness. 

Here's a question I responded to a couple of years ago- 
Q: I need longer hair now! I feel like I’ve been stuck at chin length for a decade. What hair vitamin do you take? What about prenatals?  
CN: ...My research brought me to Biotin and MSM. If you do decide to take a hair vitamin or multi, it should contain these two ingredients. Biotin promotes cell growth, the production of fatty acids, and metabolism of fats. MSM lengthens the hair growth phase (which means that you keep more hair on your head, less shedding = thicker hair). Using a combination of the two is beneficial for healthy hair. This winning combo, plus a quality multivitamin may aid in healthy hair growth.  To tie a bow on this, I don’t contribute my growth to vitamins. It’s just one part of the puzzle — a healthy diet, regular cardio and adequate water intake, will also help you maximize the genetics you were gifted with. In addition, gentle handling of the hair you’re already working with will keep more of it atop your head. Finally, it’s important to note that prenatals (compared to your average multi vitamin) don’t lead to astounding growth and increases in volume. Pregnancy hormones do that. And then, as if labor wasn’t enough, much of that hair falls to the floor. Fun. So as always, there are no quick fixes, just patience and TLC. 
This still holds true.  I take (1) 5,000 mcg capsule of Biotin a day and (1) 1,000mg MSM/ 1,000 Vitamin C packet a day.  Every damn day.  I never miss.  When I'm really on my game, I remember to take a Rainbow Light One-A-Day, a food based vitamin by the brand I entrusted my prenatal health to.  This regimen costs me ~20 dollars a month, but I charge it to the game.  

While I don't see the purpose in disrespecting the finances with the more costly, fancy 'hair vitamins' (~40 dollars a month), I do have advice for those that do.  If you're going to invest and ingest, at least give your body the best chance to actually absorb that ish. In other words, talk to your doctor about starting a probiotic regimen. 

*attorney spokesman voice* 

Have you or one of your loved ones taken all the rounds of antibiotics? Are you stressed the hell out? Is your diet a disgrace? Have you been popping birth control pills for more than 5 years? Does your pee go annoying-ass-Nike-shoe-yellow after ingesting vitamins? Then probiotics may be for you. 

I fell into all of those categories! My gastroenterologist recommended them due to my colon, which stays frustrated. 

According to Harvard.edu-
"An estimated 100 trillion microorganisms representing more than 500 different species inhabit every normal, healthy bowel. These microorganisms (or microflora) generally don’t make us sick; most are helpful. Gut-dwelling bacteria keep pathogens (harmful microorganisms) in check, aid digestion and nutrient absorption, and contribute to immune function."
NaturalNews states, 'You aren't what you eat: you are what you absorb!' They go on--
"Many people suffer from poor digestion. In fact, you might say that most people aren't able to absorb the nutrients they swallow, so they remain in a state of nutritional starvation even though they're taking supplements that would otherwise be quite helpful.
These people tend to scratch their heads, wondering why all the nutrients they're swallowing aren't having the positive effects they had hoped for. The answer to this conundrum is found in enhancing the absorption of those nutrients."
They say to skip grocery store yogurt (as most are pasteurized and much of the beneficial bacteria is killed) and either make your own, or even whip up some sauerkraut.  Y'all know I don't do the kitchen, so after turning to the google, I bought what I consider to be among the best probiotics on the market.  I keep either this one or this one, in stock.  


A regular probiotic regimen and a slightly more reasonable diet not only helps with the bloat, but my hair sheds less, which is a bonus, 'cause y'all know I'm #TeamVolume. I cut my own hair (in between professional shape-ups) to stay at boob length to keep my shrunken, chin-length bob tight.  With fine curls, this length is optimal for big, rude, natural hair.  And to make this work, I need all my strands!  So yeah, maybe it helps the MSM do its thang... or maybe I'm experiencing a placebo effect, but either way, I'll take it.  

So there you have it.  Probiotics to foster healthy hair growth.  Do your own research (this ish is not regulated by the FDA, none of it is), talk to your doctor and make smart choices!

Later Gators,
Nik

Do you take vitamins? Probiotics? Which ones?
What has your experience been?

Green Tea Rinse for Healthy Natural Hair

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  Jensine from youtube.com/junglenaps

Green tea is packed with nutrients that can benefit natural hair in many ways. When used as a hair rinse, it can complement any hair care regimen by infusing antioxidants, caffeine, and panthenol (a humectant) into the scalp and hair shaft.  Here are a few of the benefits of using a green tea hair rinse:
  • Added moisture and shine
  • Reduced shedding 
  • Increased hair growth due to the antioxidants and natural caffeine 
  • Stronger hair and less split ends (thanks to panthenol)
Typically, it can be used after rinsing your conditioner out and before styling your hair, Depending on your own preference, you can leave it in or rinse it out.

Want to learn how to effectively implement this into your own hair care routine? Check out the video below.



CN Says:
I love a tea rinse-- black or green-- whatever I have on deck :)
I don't like the stiff feeling my hair takes on immediately following a rinse, tho (kinda like post protein treatment), so I always re-apply a moisturizing instant conditioner and then rinse again.   Shedding is cut in half (if not more) and my hair couldn't be healthier.  This year, I hope to incorporate a rinse every other wash day!  xoxo

6 Methods and Techniques for Defined Natural Hair

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CN Says: 
"I get my most defined wash and gos using the praying hands method on soaking wet, freshly cleansed, moisturized and detangled hair. After finger detanglig in the shower with a slippery conditioner (like Aussie Moist), I rinse thoroughly and step out of the shower. I then apply my leave-in and/or styling cream (preferably a thin, slippery, easily distributed product) of choice to the left side of my head and then the right, using the praying hands method. I do my best not to disturb the curls that formed during the finger detangling process earlier. Finally, I carefully finger curl any frizzy pieces (especially in the front) and allow my hair to air-dry un-manipulated. For shrinkier definition, applying the product with my bass brush results in great curl definition. It's all about what' you're going for!"

  Read On!>>>
Most curls, whether loose or tight, can be defined with a few techniques and lots of conditioner, gel, custard, or pudding. Products preference and performance will vary depending on your hair’s porosity, density, length, and tendency to frizz. Here are the top 6 curl defining techniques that will help you achieve a more defined loose styles.

1. Curly Girl Method

CGM was created by Lorraine Massey and has liberated many curlies from feeling their curls were a hindrance. The method works on all hair types, but in varying ways according to your curls. The basics are to use botanical products or eliminate shampoo from your regimen in exchange for a cleansing conditioner or a botanical, sulfate-free shampoo. After applying a conditioner or your moisturizer of choice as a leave in, you can follow up with applying a styling gel with your fingers before air-drying.

Using your fingers to apply the gel versus comb following the application will help to reduce frizz. Once your styling products are applied do not touch your curls! This will only induce frizz. Also avoid brushes, as they tend to create frizz and are not necessary. This is a critical step in allowing the curls to form and set on their own. CGM encourages curl hydration without your hair feeling heavy.

2. Tightly Curly Method

TCM is similar to the curly girl method, as it agrees that a cleansing conditioner can replace shampoo. Created by Teri LaFlesh, a curly girl who struggled for years with your own hair, the key to this method is tons of conditioner and a brush. Conditioner is slathered onto your tresses to point of squishing through your fingers. Once that’s been applied, section the hair and use a brush (usually with a Denman brush) to smooth out your curls and allow them to clump.

Once the entire head is complete, reinforce the definition by finger combing and smoothing or twirling each curl. Just as in the CGM, allow your curls to dry without touching. Many curlies using the tightly curl method rave of super hydration to their hair and the curls stay distinct and happy.

3.  Finger Curls/ Twisting

After hair has been cleansed and conditioned, part the hair into sections and from there create smaller sections using your fingers according to your liking. This is great for a TWA but may be more challenging if the hair is longer. Just as it sounds, you are taking small sections of hair and curling or twirling it around your finger to help the hair form and hold a uniform clump. Once the clump is created, move on to the next section. This technique is great for curlies with multiple curl patterns, as it will make all the curls uniform. Just as the methods mentioned above, once the hair has been completed, leave it alone so it dries without any disturbance.

4. Shingling

This method is simply a concentration of product to each strand of hair. You are simply using your fingers, a brush, or a wide toothcomb to evenly distribute product before smoothing your hair in a shingling method. Once your hair has been cleansed and conditioned, section it into four sections. Start with the first section and create an even smaller section before applying conditioner to your fingertips and rake it through, making sure to elongate the curl and smooth it as you go. Lay it down and continue on to another finger part and repeat. Once your entire head is completed, do not touch during the drying process.

5. Smoothing

Begin to section freshly washed, conditioning, and detangled hair. Starting with one section, run your hands down the hair and smooth the curls into the same direction and pattern. If you want tighter, more separated curls, then smooth in smaller sections. For bigger curls, smooth the hair in bigger sections. Once all the sections have been smoothed, leave your hair alone as it dries so the curl will not be disturbed.

6.  Two Strand Twist or Braid-Out

These techniques are used for curlies that have less distinct curls, even when the hair is in a wet state. For extremely defined curls, the twist can be done on wet hair in small sections. For more volume and elongation, twist on dry hair. You pick the size of twist and make sure each twist is as uniform as possible. Finger comb each individual section, apply a holding agent, like a styling cream or gel, and take each section into two parts, and begin twisting each section around the other. Twist all the way down and add some oil or the butter to the ends to ensure they are soft and smooth.

You can add a flexi roller to the end or twirl the end around your finger to create a curl. Continue the whole head and allow the hair to completely dry before unraveling. Applying a small amount of oil or butter to your fingers and palms before unraveling will help to reduce any frizz your dry hands can induce.

Braid outs are created in the same fashion as two-strand twists, but the sectioned hair is braided instead of twisted. For more polished ends, use a flexi rollers or curling the ends around your finger to ensure the ends are smooth and soft. Make sure the braids or twists are 100% dry before releasing in order to avoid frizz.

It’s not necessary to create a perfect curl, but rather perfect your own curls, coils, and waves. Once you have accepted this, then you can strive to define your own curl, coil, or wave for your hair.

This article was originally published in May 2014 and has been updated for grammar and clarity.
How do you define your curls?

Bantu Knot-Out for Natural Hair Greatness

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Watch as Kisha L'ray executes a no-heat, bouncy and defined bantu knot-out on her natural hair.  I love rocking bantu knot-outs on my dry/stretched curls.  This style is perfect for short, medium and long lengths and results in spiral curls that relax or stretch into loose waves over time (especially if you pineapple at night).  Enjoy!

Watch Now!>>>


Share your bantu knot out tips and tricks!

A Natural Hair Detangling Tip- Basically, Use All The Conditioner.

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re-post!

Hola Chicas!

Like me,  my sister, Syl, has been natural all of her life but had mostly worn it straight until recently. While we have a similar curl pattern, her density is friggin' bananas.  Like, she basically has no access to her scalp.  The 'wash day' struggle is real, especially the detangling process.  Like many of us, she stays pushing it off 'til the day after, the day after tomorrow and she's pretty much not here for the finger detangling.

Read On!>>>
I recommended she follow my 'shower detangling' routine.  She was already on it, though.  As a refresher, here it is again--

Shower Detangling
  • Thoroughly saturate hair with water in the shower, and divide into two (left and right)
  • Cleanse hair with sulfate- free shampoo-- one side at a time (if it's a shampoo wash day) 
  • Apply slippery conditioner of the day to both sides in a smooshing motion
  • Pass head back under the shower stream for a moment, for better distribution and added slip
  • Clip the hair up and out of the way while you complete shower rituals
  • Take down the right side and gently finger detangle under the water stream.  Follow up with the left side. If the conditioner is washed away and tangles are left, add more conditioner, and repeat. The power of the water stream and the slip of the conditioner should make detangling a breeze!
So you know that step where it instructs you to 'apply slippery conditioner of the day to both sides in a smooshing motion'?  I would submit the following amendment-  
'apply no less than half the bottle of the slippery conditioner of the day to both sides in a smooshing motion'. 
Yep.  I apply vats... bucket-loads, Costco-sized, finance-disrespecting amounts of conditioner to my hair on every wash day.  My favs are still Aussie Moist and Herbal Essence Hello Hydration  because they're cheap and effective.  She was applying the recommended 'quarter-size' amount. So yeah, that, plus Shelli's tip of diluting the conditioner in an applicator bottle, will completely alter your current reality.

How much conditioner do you use on wash day? 

How I Grew Long Natural Hair Using the 'Indian Oiling Method'

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by HadassaH. of NappilyNigeriangirl.com

I'd like to share a method I've incorporated into my regimen to help me retain length.

My hair had been growing longer but I noticed that the older parts (the ends) would get dry and were prone to breaking off easily.

Usually at this point, I'd trim my hair, but since I decided to challenge myself to grow my hair to waist length, just because, I decided it was time to adapt length retention techniques into my regimen.
The henna and protein treatments had helped strengthen my hair and made it less porous overall, but it didn't stop my ends from getting dry.  And while the LOC method has proved effective in providing daily moisture, I felt I still needed more to reinforce my fine hair and make it stronger to withstand manipulation.

 late 2013

My quest for length retention led me to the 'Indian Oiling Method'.   I've been consistently using this regimen since 2013 and have made changes along the way to better suit kinky, curly hair of different textures with the help of feedback from the naturalistas around me.

This regimen is especially useful if you're suffering from unexplained dryness, brittleness, breakage, hair shed and dullness. Where this is excessive, please see your doctor.

During the period of adopting this regimen, it has really helped my hair by:

- preventing breakage and improving length (I was able to finally grow my fine hair down to my waist!)-- I have waist length hair!
- improving elasticity and strength
- improving sheen and softness
- improving moisture retention
- improving styling

Read On!>>>




Here's an excerpt from an article revealing Indian haircare practices and products used:

Generally using herbs for healthy hair maintenance (in India) involves some kind of oiling and an herbal wash.

You may also add an herbal rinse. The wash and rinse can be one mixture, or used separately, but together they should contain at least one cleansing agent (such as shikakai or aritha/reetha and one conditioning agent such as amla).

Some Indians also use rice starch as a type of natural emulsifier to bind the herb powders together and make them easier to apply and rinse out.

Indian women tend to oil their hair daily or every other day, and to wear their hair in a single braid or a bun. Very rarely do they wear their hair down.

Why oiling?
Oils are used as a protective conditioner and for treating problems of hair growth and both hair and scalp condition. They can be used daily to protect hair from the elements.

Herbal oils are applied to the scalp daily or pre-wash to treat scalp conditions. More thorough scalp and length oiling is done pre-wash as a conditioner to protect the hair from the drying effects of the cleansing herbs and water.

Herbal oils are chosen depending on condition of the scalp and used either together or separately.
They are applied on non wash days in the evening or at least 30 minutes before washing to let the herb act on the scalp.

Pre-wash oiling is done on dry hair at least 30 minutes before washing. Non- wash day oiling can be done on dry or damp (misted) hair depending on how hair reacts to oiling.
Amount used depends on hair length and how much oil the hair absorbs. Start with small amounts and increase as needed.

Post wash oiling is done on dry or damp hair depending on the hair reaction to oils. Only a small amount is used. It helps in detangling and shine, similar to a leave-in conditioner.

Which oils might be right for you?

- Coconut oil
Prevents protein loss from hair during washing.Applied both pre-wash and on the days between washing.
For dry or damaged ends: Wet/ mist the ends of the hair and liberally apply coconut oil, then braid. Let the oil soak in for at least a day.

-Sesame oil
Can be applied between washing but, referred as a pre-wash oil as it has a stronger scent than coconut.

-Mustard oil
It is used more in Northern India, for the scalp and for medicinal body massages. It brings circulation to the scalp due to its mild irritating properties, similar to cayenne pepper. It has anti-bacterial properties.
Do not try to infuse herbs in this by heating as it produces noxious fumes. Applied pre-wash to scalp only. Has a strong scent.

-Amla Oil
Conditioning astringent. Used for hair loss, premature graying, strengthens the roots, reduces dandruff.
Prevents split ends. A small amount is applied to hair and scalp after washing or massaged in pre-wash.

Source: www.gossamerstrands.com/Hair/Indianherbs.htm


THE METHOD

The regimen has three parts,
1. Shampoo
2. Condition
3. Oil

Step 1: Shampoo

The first step is the shampoo step. If you've been oiling your hair everyday till wash day, your hair will be protected from hygral fatigue (water causing your hair to expand) with the accumulated oil.

If this is your first time, apply a lot of oil overnight before shampooing (pre-poo). You don't need to repeat this step again afterwards.

You can choose any shampoo of choice but it should be pH balanced, moisturising and sulfate free. The original shampoo regimen is a mix of Soapnut, Amla and Shikakai powder. If you don't have the time or ingredients to mix, a gentle poo works fine.

My washing mantra is shampoo the scalp, condition the hair.

Dilute your shampoo in a bottle or cup with a spout. It makes it easy to access your scalp and get it clean. It also makes sure whatever shampoo you're using doesn't strip your hair.

You can also wash your hair in braids or twists. Whatever helps you get access to your scalp. You can use this opportunity to give yourself a scalp massage.

Don't worry about your hair strands, they'll be cleansed by the run off while you rinse.

Optional : After rinsing off the shampoo, mix 3 parts water and 1 part apple cider vinegar , then use it to rinse your hair again. This is meant to acidify your hair and close cuticles so your hair feels smoother. It's also helps with dandruff and itchy scalp. So if this is you, try this out.
If you experience unexplained shedding, try brewing black/green tea and use it to rinse your hair.
Wait 5-10 mins before proceeding to conditioning.

Step 2: Conditioning

Sometimes I even skip the conditioning step and proceed to the oiling step especially after I've done an ACV rinse. However, conditioning helps provide the slip for detangling and coats the hair with moisturising ingredients.

I actually prefer deep conditioning instead of the usual conditioning for this step. I use the rinse out conditioner to co-wash off my deep conditioner instead.

Condition your hair only. Try not to let the conditioners touch your scalp. You want to keep your scalp clear.

Blot off excess water and proceed to the next step.

Step 3: Oiling

After working with different oil mixes, this formulation has been effective in improving the health of my hair and scalp. You can use any oil you notice your hair loves.  Coconut, amla and or a castor oil/coconut mix are top choices. 

-Divide your hair into four sections.

-Pour a small amount of oil into your palm, rub together to warm and massage into your scalp with your fingertips and the rest along the length of your hair.  If your hair feels greasy, you have used too much.  This is how much I use for each section:


-Do this for each section of your hair and scalp until fully absorbed.

-I enjoy bending forward while I massage the oil into my hair and scalp. Not only is it easier on my arms, it increases blood flow to the scalp.

-After oiling your hair, apply a light leave in conditioner and then seal your ends with a moisturising butter.

-Then braid or twist your hair till it dries.  This is so your natural hair stretches, the oil is given time to penetrate and you have a fabulous braid or twist out.

-Everyday afterwards, apply a little oil to your hair and around your edges. You don't need to repeat all over your scalp unless you are treating any scalp issues.  It fits right into your LOC moisture routine as the Oil step.

-By the time your next wash day comes, you wouldn't even need to prepoo and with consistency, you'll notice less breakage and shedding, I kid you not!

Here's my wash and go after oiling for 3 days straight. When I'm lazy, I usually skip several days but I had just taken my hair out of a protective style and it was as brittle as kpekere so I had to be serious with oiling for 3 days without fail.

For this wash and go, I followed all three steps then oiled for three days before wetting my dry hair and applying styling product for my wash and go.



Because my hair was happy, I only used very little gel for each of the 8 sections of hair I worked with.

No drips.
No crunch.
No product overload.

P.S. Oils are not moisturizers, water is...so while doing this regimen, don't forget to moisturize after with a water based leave in.


Do you regularly oil your natural hair?

Presence.

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'Death ends a life, not a relationship.' - M. Albom

I came across this picture today while searching the back channels of CN for a lead photo for another post.  I naturally began to cry, again.  Usually that only happens at night.  The presence of her absence is everywhere.  But even through the tears, I can feel the peace... the joy, just beneath the surface, and I know that's where she lives. 

Later Gators, 
Nik

When 'I'm not ready' really means, 'I'm not worthy'

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Do you know how it feels to want something so badly that you dread it?

I'm talking about pushing away the very thing you want most, the very life you want most. Because deep down you don't believe that you can have it. Because you've romanticized it and your expectations have gotten so high that you are afraid you'll mess it up. And what will you have to give up to get it? There's so much uncertainty, so many questions. It seems unattainable so you pretend you don't want it. You talk yourself out of it. You see it coming and you run. All of this is disguised in a common escape:

'I'm not ready.'

Sometimes what we say is 'I'm not ready' but what we whisper is 'I'm not worthy.'

Read On!>>>


You're scared of this life you want but rather than admit that, it's easier to say you're not ready. You want to feel deserving and capable but you don't so you stay where you are. The things you want, the things that are meant for you, become distant and maybe you start to resent them. Cause if you're driven by the sneaky belief that you're not worthy, then your actions will reflect that and you'll never feel ready to receive.

When you say you're not ready, does that mean you don't know everything yet? You don't have enough of something yet? Does it mean you're afraid you'll make a mess? Because sometimes you have to make a mess and be a mess and have nothing to be ready to move willingly toward the things you used to run from. Our extremes teach us what really matters and what we can hold onto when everything becomes slippery.

I talk about simplicity and gratitude a lot but I have to tell you that I want a whole lot of things. Not so many tangible things but feelings and experiences. And it wasn't until the last few years that I stopped pretending that I didn't want them. It wasn't until even more recently that I stopped dreading these things, avoiding them, thinking that I would screw them up.

I want to raise my family in a healthy and peaceful environment. I want an abundant, writerly life. I want to collaborate with inspired, creative people. I want to add crazy amounts of love to the world with the things I create. In order to have these things I want and live life this way, I have to know I'm worthy. It took me making a mess and being a mess to finally have this change in perception where I'm not ashamed to want what I want and open myself up to receive.

What do you want?

Do you dread it and run from it? Is it inconvenient? Does it seem impossible? Does it stand up to everything you've been taught to fear? You may not know why you want it or how much it means to you until you go after it. You don't know what the process will look like, how it will affect you or how you will affect the world by pursuing it. But you can be sure that you want what you want for a reason.

When you say you're not ready, question your reasons. What if being ready is as simple as being prepared to be yourself, taking each experience as it comes, giving the best you are capable of at that time? What if being ready is just a matter of having faith and knowing you are enough? Even as you're learning and feeling awkward and wishing things were easier, you have to keep showing up and being ready. Miracles happen all the time and how many of them do we miss because we're supposedly not ready?

27 Habits for Longer, Thicker Natural Hair

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glam idol, Alesha!

by Michelle of Radiant-Brown-Beauty

Hello ladies,

Below are twenty-seven things you can do to improve the health of your hair and keep it from shedding prematurely or breaking off. The Goal? To keep your hair on your head!

Not including the obvious elimination of chemical treatments, this comprehensive list contains all you need to maintain a healthy head of hair. They are categorized by care/maintenance and styling. 

Read On!>>>
Care and Maintenance
  1. Nix shampoos with sulfates. It doesn’t matter if you hair is natural or relaxed. Sulfates strip the hair of needed moisture and natural oils.
  2. Pre-poo (pre-shampoo) your hair with coconut oil or olive oil. Coconut oil helps hair retain its moisture and protein. Both natural oils protect the hair from being stripped (and from excessive swelling of the cuticle) when you shampoo.
  3. Deep condition your hair with a moisturizing conditioner after every wash.
  4. Get a protein treatment.  For maintenance, you can do this once a month or more if your hair is breaking.
  5. Trim away split ends as necessary, but don’t get a trim for the sake of trimming. If your goal is to retain length, you’ll only be cutting off perfectly good hair. The less you do to damage your hair, the less you’ll need to trim it. 
  6. No microfiber or towel drying. Contrary to popular belief, microfiber rips the hair out. It acts like velcro to our tresses! Towel drying frizzes the hair. Either air dry or use an old t-shirt.
  7. Refrigerate your leave-in conditioner. A cold leave-in will help to seal your hair’s cuticle after washing. This is extremely helpful if you can’t take a cold water rinse. It will also increase the shine in your hair.
  8. Lubricate your hair with a light natural oil daily. Jojoba is light and helps keep the hair tangle free.
  9. Seal your ends with Jamaican Black Castor Oil. I have found this oil to be the best at protecting the ends from splitting. It’s so thick and protective, causing the ends to clump together. Seal after every wash and before styling.
  10. Massage your scalp to stimulate your hair follicles 2-3 times a week. Some believe this encourages hair growth. I have not found it to do so one way or another, but it certainly can’t hurt and it does increase the blood flow to your scalp.
  11. Take a multi-vitamin with Methylosulfonylmethame (MSM). MSM is believed to extend the lifespan of your individual hairs while also alleviating dry scalp (less hair shed).
  12. Never sleep on your hair loose. It’s more prone to tangling and breakage. Tie it up and…
  13. Make satin your hair’s best friend. Sleeping in a satin scarf, bonnet or on a satin pillowcase prevents your hair’s moisture from being robbed.
  14. Moisturize your hair as needed. Use your sense of touch to tell. If it feels dry, moisturize. If you are chemically relaxed, you may need to do so 1-2 times daily. Natural hair may only require moisturizing every couple days.
  15. Don’t use too many different brands. When your hair begins responding, you want to know what’s working. In other words, curtail your PJ (product junkie) ways, take good notes and keep it simple!
  16. Eat a diet rich in Omega-3 fatty acids. It's good for your hair and skin too, keeping both soft and pliable. 
  17. Try henna. I’ve been giving my hair henna treatments for afew years now.  My hair health is improved along with amazing strength and shine.
  18. Clarify monthly. Hair products build up on the hair and every now and then the hair needs to be thoroughly cleansed. Especially, if you only co-wash (condition wash). You can either use a clarifying shampoo once a month or add a tablespoon of baking soda to your hair while shampooing. Apple cider vinegar is another option.
Styling
  1. Protective style your hair. Wear simple styles that offer little manipulation of your tresses and hide your ends which are the oldest parts of your hair. Buns and up-dos are classic.
  2. Stop heat styling your hair. Air drying is the best thing you can do to keep your hair on your head. Limit heat styling to rare special occasions.
  3. Never comb or brush dry hair to style. Finger comb or wear hair in twist outs, twists, braids or braids out to minimize breakage.
  4. Comb hair from the bottom up. When your hair is soaking wet and saturated with conditioner, you can comb it with a large tooth comb or Denman brush to detangle. Do so carefully, working from the bottom up.
  5. Never ever tease your hair. This is a cardinal sin against natural hair (well hair in general, but some don’t know it)
  6. Don’t pull hair apart like a wishbone. If your hair is tangled, gently pull it up and apart in stead of pulling it apart like would a wishbone.
  7. Use hair accessories with no hanging parts or exposed metal. Banana clips, Satin Scrunchies, Goodie Flex Barrettes, Ouchless bobby pins & Ouchless elastic bands are the best for styling hair so that it does not get damaged.
  8. Avoid pulling hair tight at the hairline. Doing so will recede your hairline and damage the follicles permanently.
  9. Check your nails. Hanging nails will damage hair. Always make sure your nails are smooth and even before hair styling.   
Got any hair tips you’d like to add to the list? How many of the above have you made a habit of?!

Are You Washing Your Natural Hair Wrong?

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by Sabrina Perkins of SeriouslyNatural.org

You already know just how beneficial co-washing is to a natural hair. Moisture is the name of the game as well as keeping the harsh chemicals and products away from our hair as much as possible! I don't think any natural would disagree with me on that.

I'm sure by now you also know how bad the effects shampoo can have on natural hair but it's also necessary to properly cleanse the hair and scalp as well. Pretty much a double -edged sword and even with sulfate-free shampoos you still can be stripping too much moisture and natural oils.

Now, when I was relaxed, I washed my hair weekly. Just like now unless I'm a little too lazy and will stretch it to a week and a half or even two weeks before I finally shampoo. I used oils back during my relaxed days but none of them were virgin or pure.

Once it was time to shampoo, I knew I had to shampoo once to get the cleanser in my hair. I would rinse it out and do my 'real' wash with a second application of the shampoo. I would really feel the suds and know the dirt, grime, pollution and gunk leaving my hair. I never gave it a thought since the shampoo bottle clearly says shampoo 'and repeat' on every bottle I've ever purchased.

Read On!>>>


I had so many things going through my mind when I first went natural that I wasn't concerned with how many times I would need to shampoo. I just expected to do the regular and required two washes. I noticed right away that I got the suds on the first application as well as it felt CLEAN. My hair was clean with one shampooing. NO REPEAT? No! It was actually noticeable.

Shampooing may still be a factor for many naturals. Hey, there is absolutely nothing wrong with that especially if you need a clarifying shampoo from time to time or you just don't feel your tresses are getting cleaned with co-washing. What is not a necessary component for shampooing is the repeating. Most of us are not using harsh chemicals, non-water soluble silicones and if we are using them, it's pretty sparingly, so do you really need to repeat your poo'?

This is just a "aha" moment. You know, the ones Oprah is so famous for. Sometimes we overlook the small things that change around us that mean more than their size. Something so small as, 'no repeat necessary' versus 'repeat' seems trivial but it means something to me. I have changed and so has my hair and my routine.

Have you noticed an "aha" moment since you've been natural?



CN Says:
I never. Never, ever, ever, ever, suds up more than once... and I use some pretty disrespectful ingredients at times.  It's just not necessary.  Another tip for 'pooing properly is to use an applicator bottle (with diluted shampoo) so you can really focus on your scalp!  Happy cleansing!

The Secret to Maintaining Bleached and Colored Hair

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by Devri

I'm Jasmine, a 22-year-old from Philadelphia, Pa and recent Temple grad working towards a career in psychology. Like many other women, I was given relaxers as a young girl and for a while, I didn't know much better. However, once I finished high school, I decided that I wanted to embrace my individuality and dye my hair crazy colors! I knew that in order to achieve colorful, yet healthy hair, I would have to quit getting relaxers. That was four years ago and I am still loving my natural hair today!

Read On!>>>

Use Protein Free Products...and Moisturize A LOT!


In the daytime, it is very essential that I moisturize my hair, as it is for most naturals. About once a week, I will shampoo, condition and detangle my hair using protein free products.

After washing, I moisturize my hair with a heavy amount of a moisturizing product and then seal with an oil. During my non-wash days, I moisturize my hair by using a homemade spritz mixture. (Water, conditioner, oil, leave in.. Etc).

At night, I tend to spritz my hair and put it into two ponytails to prevent my hair from matting and shrinking while sleeping. Then I simply place a satin scarf onto my head and I'm set.

This is the part that scares many naturals but I always bleach my hair before dyeing! If done properly, bleaching can be a safe and effective method of achieving beautiful and vibrant color.

Once the hair has already been bleached, MOISTURIZE!


The key to maintaining lustrous hair is always to keep the hair in great condition. Especially after putting the hair through a stressful process such as bleaching and dyeing. But hey, it's your hair, so enjoy it and have fun!



My all time fave products are the Garnier Fructis Sleek & Shine leave in , shampoo, and conditioner. My hair enjoys these products since there are no added proteins. When I do feel the need to give my hair some protein, I usually go for the Garnier Fructis Damage Eraser deep conditioning treatment.

Take your time with the process of learning how to dye your hair.



If you have a friend that's already skilled at dyeing hair, watch them in practice and take note of how the process works. Start small...Once you feel confident to dye your own hair, start with just a small section to see how your hair responds to this sort of process. Then once you get the hang of it, go wild!

Stay away from box dyes that both bleach and color your hair simultaneously.


Surprisingly, it's better that you first bleach the hair, and then afterwards apply the color as a two-step process. That way, you can also mix different colors together if you wanted.

Do you color? What tips do you have for curlies thinking of taking the plunge?

Caring for Your Natural Hair While Rocking Crochet Braids

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by Sabrina Perkins of Seriouslynatural.org

Crochet braids are one of the hottest new trends among naturals. This weaving method not only achieves a more natural look, but it is a great protective styling option that offers a wide variety of choices. From braids to blowouts, crochet braids can achieve a plethora of natural hairstyles without causing unnecessary damage to your hair.

I LOVED mine despite me not keeping them in long (I got added hair issues) but they are an easy way to spice up your look. However, unlike sew-ins and other weaving techniques, Crochet braids give you access to your scalp in order to keep it cleansed and moisturized regularly. If you’re unsure of how to maintain your hair while it’s in crochet braids, here are a few tips and tricks!

Read On!>>>
Cleanse
Since your scalp is accessible, it is very easy to keep it cleansed and moisturized properly. One great way to cleanse your scalp while it is in Crochet braids is by spraying some watered down shampoo onto the scalp. Rub the scalp gently, trying not to cause too much frizz, and rinse gently with some water using an applicator.

Another way to keep the scalp clean is by using a dry shampoo which is a great option if you work out often, or if a bit wary about wetting the hair while it is braided. When you’re finished, be sure to blot the scalp dry with a clean t-shirt or towel.

Moisturize
One key component to keeping the hair and scalp at its healthiest is making sure that it is properly moisturized. You can simply just use water, Aloe Vera juice, or even a liquid leave-in conditioner that can be applied with a spray bottle. Be sure to concentrate on the ends (if you can reach them) as they tend to dry out faster.

Also, depending on what type of hair you use, spritzing it with a bit of leave-in every once in a while could actually benefit your look, ensuring that the hair does not become dry, matted or giving off an ashy appearance.

Seal
After moisturizing, you have to seal the hair with an oil or butter in order to prevent the moisture from escaping. You can either use a lightweight oil (almond, coconut, avocado, etc.) or use an oil mist in order to ensure that all of the hair is reached without weighing it down.

While these are just some basic steps, they are just some of the key components needed if you intend on keeping the crocheted hair in for an extended period of time. Be sure to take them down within a reasonable time-frame in order to prevent matting, thoroughly cleanse the scalp and deep condition the hair.

What are some ways that you care for your hair while in Crochet braids?


CN Says:
Prior to getting the hair installed, be sure you have thoroughly cleansed and deep conditioned your real hair for the long haul!  #GetOnTheGoodFoot 

Trimming Natural Hair- The Art of Dusting

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WHAT IS DUSTING?
A dusting is where a very small amount of hair is trimmed off the ends of the hair.  So little is removed that it looks like fine dust on the floor. Ends can be dusted to remove splits before they become out of control. 


Read On!>>>
HOW DO I DUST MY HAIR?

1. Take a small section of hair split it in two.


2. Twist the section of hair so that it's neat and smooth. You may notice little hairs that are split poking out from the twist.


3. Dust by trimming just above the split ends.


4. Undo the twist and twist in the opposite direction in order to expose any other splits you may have missed.


5. Repeat this process throughout the entire head. There should only be a light 'dusting' of hair on your counters or floor.


NOTES


*One should dust their hair every 6 to 8 weeks to keep split ends under control.


* Hair shears are the proper tool for this process. Please keep your craft scissors far from your hair.


* Be sure to dust your hair under adequate natural lighting for best results.


* A beauty mirror with a magnified side is your best friend for those sections that are hard to see.


Do you dust your hair to avoid having to cut large amounts of damaged hair?
 Tell us your technique in the comment section below!
 
 
********************************************
CurlyNikki Says:

I know I'm overdue for a trim when detangling becomes a beast, and when I too easily run across split ends. So once every two months, I dust or micro-trim after my hair has been twisted. I survey the ends of each twist, and snip off the last 1/8 - 1/4 of an inch. This keeps my ends neat and detangling sessions quick, while maintaining maximum length.  I trim more depending on the state of my ends, if I'm attempting to keep a bob shape and length (as I am now) and/or how long it’s been since the last session. 


 In between dusting sessions, “search and destroy” missions keep my ends sharp. I conduct “search and destroys” whenever I happen to grab a curl and can see more than a split end or two without straining. I do this while sitting in front of the TV, standing in the bathroom mirror, or even while on the internet. The lighting in all three situations is perfect! After snipping a few, I become anal and my sessions can last more than an hour. I cut just above the split or jagged end and apply moisturizer and oil as I go. After I finish, I'm usually on my way to re-style because it leaves me with a frizzy, undefined mess.

Be sure to only use hair scissors when trimming. This is VERY important! I purchase my scissors from Walmart, Sally's or Ulta and they usually run me between $10 and $40. I hide them from Hubby and only use them for hair, to keep them sharp as dull scissors can do more harm than good!

The Baggy Method for Long, Healthy Natural Hair

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by Michelle Thames of HappilyEverNatural.com

I don’t know about you, but my hair has been so dry this winter! Winter go away, spring come out and play! LOL! No but really it seems like my hair and my ends have been so dry and yucky. I am on my healthy hair journey, so I am always looking for ways to help moisturize my dry hair. I recently did the porosity test and determined that my hair is low porosity, meaning that my hair is hesitant to opening up for water and moisture. Most of the time when I apply products they just sit on top of my hair. My hair doesn’t readily absorb products, and keep moisture.

I recently got back to my old ways and did the old trusty baggy method. I used to do this method all the time when I first went natural and I don’t know why I have been neglecting it lately. The baggy method is a method that is similar to deep conditioning because it traps in moisture.

Read On!>>>
To do this method you will need to apply a water based moisturizer to your hair. If you have low porosity hair like me you should definitely use a water based product. Meaning that water is the first ingredient in the product.

After applying the moisturizer to your hair, cover your hair with a plastic cap for 20-30 minutes. This method is called “baggying” because it helps to capture moisture. You can do this method two ways: to your entire head, or just on your ends only (baggying just the ponytail after your hair as been gathered). After you remove the plastic cap apply your favorite oil to seal in the moisture. I like to use grape seed oil or almond oil. These oils are not very heavy and just right for my hair. This method leaves me with soft moisturized hair every time!

Do you use the baggy method?

5 Things That Prevent Hair Growth

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by Kanisha Parks of BlackNaps.org

2015 was definitely a year of learning about my hair for me. I made some good hair habits, and some not so good, but all in all I can truly say that I know my hair much better now than I did at the beginning of the year.

Sometimes we don’t always pursue the best habits for our hair and let’s face it: we’re all human and sometimes our hair can’t take first place. But this year, let’s commit to being better to our hair and retaining as much growth as possible by leaving these hair habits behind in 2015:

Read On!>>>


1. Insufficient Trims.
Trimming is an essential part of any natural hair regimen. However often you trim, make sure you get all of the hair that needs to be trimmed when you do. Prolonging trims can exacerbate thin ends and before you know it, you’ll be in need of a haircut. The best recommendation is to trim when necessary, but definitely don’t allow three months to pass without ensuring your ends are at their best.

2. Defective Styling
I am definitely guilty of defective styling in 2015. I called myself protective styling but all too often ended up installing box braids just so that I didn’t have to deal with my hair. All too often I didn’t moisturize my hair or do any scalp massages and as a result, my hair didn’t grow as much could have.

Protective styling is still very beneficial for Type 4 hair, but we have to make sure we wear these styles properly and take sufficient breaks in between. This year I’ve decided to wear braids every other month, allowing my hair to be free for one month in between to breathe.

3. Overmanipulation.
Combs, brushes, heat tools- all of these take a toll on your hair. When it comes to detangling on wash day, try your hand at finger detangling first. It will help you alleviate the majority of your tangles without ripping your strands. Then use a wide tooth comb and for even smoother results, a paddle brush. THroughout the week, refrain from using combs and brushes as much as possible, opting for using your fingers instead. It may be more time consuming, but it’s totally worth it.

As far as heat tools, there’s nothing wrong with using them every once in awhile but if length retention is your goal, those tools should be used minimally and with care when you do. Always deep condition with protein before flat ironing, and you can always blow dry using cool air to cut down on the use of heat as well. I love blow drying my hair on cool air to prep for protective styles for maximum stretch without the extra stress of heat usage.

4. Neglect.
This includes anything from not doing those scalp massages that you know are good for your hair to not taking your vitamins consistently if they’re apart of your regimen. Natural hair suffers when it is neglected. So if you find yourself neglecting to do what you know is necessary for your hair, like moisturizing properly, wearing your silk/satin scarf, and sticking to a good hair regimen, don’t be surprised that your hair is not where you want it to be.

5. Rash Hair Decisions.
Since this post caters to hair growth, rash hair decisions just won’t “cut it.” If you’ve been eyeing a cute bob or colored ‘do, try to find a wig instead. In order to grow natural hair, you obviously should refrain from cutting or damaging your strands. Keep in mind that there are many Type 4 naturals who have colored strands, but it will require more maintenance to successfully keep your hair healthy in the process. It’s better to wait until you have obtained the length you’ve been striving for.

What are some hair habits you’re leaving in 2015?

How to Go from Relaxed to Natural Hair (the Easy Way)

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Going natural is a wonderful journey to take. It's a personal one too that each woman must determine how she will go about doing it. I get tired of many saying the journey is hard, long and full of pitfalls but honestly, isn't life? I'm just feeling we need to be truthful about going Natural and taking care of our hair whether relaxed or natural.

One of the first choices to make going natural is the path you choose. There are two main routes to take and neither is better than the other.

Read On!>>>
Big Chop (BC) – Cutting off all relaxed hair immediately and starting fresh with only natural hair. This method allows you to use products for one type of hair (natural) and most women start with the TWA or Teeny Weeny Afro. Understandably, this may be a daunting prospect if you have never worn your hair cropped before but many ladies have described the experience as freeing so if you are brave and impulsive, this is the path for you.

Long Term Transitioning – Allowing the relaxed hair to grow out for a while before cutting the relaxed ends off. Here, you will be left with two textures to work with (relaxed and natural) for the duration of the transition. BHI

Many feel long-term transitioning is harder as you are working with two textures, well actually, three when you factor in scab hair. Scab hair is the unscientific term associated with the newly grown hair that comes in after one stops using relaxers. It's very fragile, dry and prone to breakage but may not even remotely resemble your natural tresses. Now, BC'ing will not keep you from dealing with the scab hair but you don't have to worry about the relaxed ends along with it.

Women who are interested in the BC
  • Not wanting to deal with their relaxed ends. If you are over your relaxed hair and just want to ditch it then the BC is for you!
  • Women who love the freeing feeling of going short. Many who BC say they LOVE the experience and see it as a way to start clean at going natural.
  • Women who love short hair. Hey, there are all kinds and if you love short hair cut it off and have fun with the tons of accessories around to do it up anyway you see fit and that includes added hair.
  • You have severely damaged hair. This may be the best route for you. Start with a clean slate by doing the BC and know that you can bring your hair back to being healthy.
Women who are interested in the Long-Term Transitioning
  • Women not ready to cut all of their hair off. It's not for everyone and going natural has to feel comfortable for you. If keeping your tresses is going to make that transition easier than by all means do it!
  • Women who hate short hair or hate it on them. It takes some of us longer to get those longer tresses so don't feel like you have to sport a TWA for anyone.
  • The woman whose significant other (SO) needs time for adjustment. Or maybe you need the time to adjust. There are several women who complain their SO doesn't want them to go natural. Well, you can slowly go into it and give all parties involved a chance to see just how beautiful this journey is.
  • The woman who wants to practice on styles. Yes, there will be more styles to work with as a Long-Term Transitioner since you will have more hair to work with. Curlier styles work best when long-term transitioning as it's easier to blend relaxed, scab, and natural hair on curlier styles than straight styles.
Remember...this is YOUR journey. No one else can take it for you so let's keep it as positive and pleasant as possible. Both routes are great but may be filled with setbacks or pitfalls. Reason being, this is something new to you AND your hair. Patience, love, gentleness and knowledge is necessary for you to succeed so first things first...pick your route and look forward to a beautiful transformation!

Naturals, which route did you take or if thinking about going Natural, which route do you want to take?
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